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From the monthly archives:

May 2009

Kerry K. Taylor, author of 397 Ways to Save Money and creator of financial blog Squawkfox joins Tom Dziubek today to discuss her book, currently available from Amazon.ca. Kerry explains how she paid off $17,000 of debt in six months and how to make drastic life changes. She also shares some of her favorite tips from 397 Ways to Save Money.

 

To listen, use the player above (Adobe Flash required), download the podcast here, subscribe to the podcast RSS feed, or use the iTunes link. Note: open links in a new window (Ctrl-click or Command-click) to avoid interrupting the podcast.

[00:00] Introduction from Flexo
[00:39] Interview with Kerry K. Taylor of Squawkfox
[01:33] — Paying off $17,000 of debt in six months
[03:34] — Negotiating your first salary offer
[04:47] — Maintaining a student lifestyle and standard of living
[05:57] — Using any available tax credits and saving for retirement
[08:18] — Moving to an organic farm and making other drastic life changes
[11:36]397 Ways to Save Money
[13:55] — How renting an apartment can make you rich
[17:00] — How management fees deplete returns from your investments
[18:07] — Other surprising tips from 397 Ways to Save Money
[19:06] — Is the recent popularity of frugality just a fad?
[25:20] End

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See the review of the best online savings accountsupdated August 18, 2009.

A brief history of Ally Bank and its parent, GMAC

In the turmoil engulfing General Motors there have been some changes related to banking. 51% of GMAC, which was originally established as a wholly-owned subsidiary of GM to provide financing for automotive purchases, was sold several years ago to private investors. GMAC branched into retail banking, offering savings accounts, certificates of deposit, and money market accounts with an arm of the subsidiary called GMAC Bank. More recently, GMAC became a bank holding company to take advantage of the Troubled Asset Relief Program (TARP), receiving $5 billion from taxpayers through the government.

At the same time, General Motors, which still owns 49% of GMAC, continued to founder towards bankruptcy. In an attempt to distance itself from the GM brand, GMAC Bank rebranded itself as Ally Bank, focused on offering a high-yield interest product, and began actively seeking new customers and depositors.

Click here to see Ally Bank’s current interest rate yield and apply for an account.

Opening an account with Ally Bank

I decided to become an Ally Bank depositor today. Before doing so, I wanted to be confident that my money would be safe amidst General Motors’ impending bankruptcy. Funds deposited with Ally Bank are insured by the FDIC up to the recently raised limits. I won’t come close to exceeding $250,000 in this account. The Treasury recently provided an additional $7.5 billion to GMAC, so Ally Bank’s immediate parent company is well capitalized at the moment.

ally1Here are my experiences from the bank account opening process thus far. As I visited the website to begin my application, Ally Bank warned me that I would need my driver’s license (or an alternate state or military identification number) in addition to my social security number to proceed.

Like some other banks, Ally performs a credit check to verify identity, but they may also reject your application if you are viewed to be a credit risk. The possibility of rejection based on credit history is unusual for banks, but considering this bank is owned by a financing company that has lately become a bank holding company and this type of structure might increase in popularity, requiring credit checks for bank accounts may be part a new reality.

It look less than two seconds once I submitted my application for Ally Bank to inform me my application was approved. Once inside this virtual gate, I was able to choose whether I wanted to receive paper or electronic statements. I always choose electronic to cut down on paper waste, and I wish more services would offer this option from the beginning.

Here’s another great feature. Like ING Direct’s subaccounts, I could create as many separate savings accounts, with their own account names and numbers, as I wanted. At this point in the initial set-up, I could also add money market accounts and certificates of deposit.

I set up two separate savings accounts, both to be funded electronically from my ING Direct Electric Orange checking account. Like setting up linked accounts at any other bank, I will be required to verify two small deposits to ensure I am the owner of the linked account. Options for a one-time initial deposit or a recurring automatic savings plan are available.

Ally Bank then required me to create my security settings for viewing my account information and activity online. The bank has combined most of the security features that have become commonplace over the past few years. I created a user name and a strong password, including mixed case letters and numbers. I selected some secret code words, an image I can expect to see each time I log in, and three security questions and answers. Ally also provides the option for registering the computer you mainly use for accessing the website to avoid repeated security questions at each online session.

If Ally Bank does not recognize the computer you are using to log into your account, they will send you an email with a single-use password to further confirm your identity. I have not seen this feature implemented anywhere else.

Using the Ally Bank savings account

Once logged in, I was impressed with the clean look of the interface. Click on the example below to zoom in.

Ally Bank interface

Ally Bank supports Intuit Quicken and Microsoft Money through Web Connect, which means you can log into the bank’s website and download your activity. At this time, you cannot automatically download your Ally accounts’ activity through Quicken directly (”Direct Connect”). If you like Excel for reconciling your account, Ally offers a flat comma-separated values spreadsheet for download.

Transfers among your Ally accounts, and between your Ally accounts and your linked bank accounts, are free, but keep in mind that savings accounts and money market accounts are limited to six withdrawals per period.

Ally Bank charges no account maintenance fees and there is no minimum balance. If you exceed the six withdrawals mentioned above, Ally will charge a $10 fee. Cashier’s checks and wires carry an additional cost. A returned deposit item, if a check you send bounces or if you don’t have funds in an external account to cover a transfer, will cost $7.50.

The bank is also drawing attention to their 24-hour customer service availability and the plain language used throughout their website. I have not yet worked with Ally’s customer service, but I will be sure to report any future frustrations.

Conclusion

Opening my account with Ally Bank was painless and quick, and I like how the website operates so far. After my initial deposit is transferred, I will have a better idea of how quickly funds are available and can be transferred back to external accounts. I will return with more information at that time.

The main question I have moving forward is how long Ally Bank will be able to maintain their position as one of the highest among high-yield savings accounts. Bank have long used high interest rates to lure new customers only to drop the rates when they become confident in their position as leader, like ING Direct, or when the bank changes ownership, like Washington Mutual.

The American Bankers Association (ABA) sent a letter on May 27, 2009 to the FDIC requesting that Ally Bank be forced to lower their deposit interest rates, citing the bank’s unfair competitive advantage. It is unfortunate that the ABA would take this stance with savers forced to settle for interest rates that will not reach the rate of inflation going forward. The ABA has since removed the letter from the organization’s website.

Like I said above, I am not concerned with risk to the liquidity of my deposit despite Ally Bank’s association with GMAC and General Motors. If the worst happens to General Motors, Ally Bank should remain relatively unaffected.

If you are interested, apply for an Ally Bank savings account here and let me know about your experience by commenting below.

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Well, I sold my first stock. I agonized over when would be the right time, but then I just pulled the trigger, anyway.

Earlier this year, I started using the “free money” I was getting from this credit card to buy some stocks.

In March, we paid our tax bill of over $3,300 using that card, so the 2% rewards were higher than normal. I asked a friend of mine who knows a lot more about the stock market than me what stocks were catching her eye, and on her unofficial recommendation I bought 60 shares of CAR, the Avis car rental people.

That was April 17th. The stock price was $1.50. With a $9.95 commission at Sharebuilder, I ended up “spending” a total of $99.95.

And then I watched as the stock price just rose and rose and rose.

Avis stock performance since Apr 17th

On about May 20th I started wondering if I should sell my proceeds. We’ve had rather more pet problems than usual and I was a little worried that our upcoming vacation might suffer as a result. The “overall return” on that investment, according to Google Finance, was hovering around 200%, which is a heck of a lot more than the 7 to 9% we’re taught to expect from long-term investments.

So I sold it on May 27th. I was a bit alarmed to see that there was yet another commission of $9.95. To me, that’s like paying a toll over a bridge going in each direction.

Stock proceeds: $282.24
Minus original investment of $99.95: $182.29

Now, if I’m reading this Capital Gains Tax table correctly, we’re going to be hit with a 25% of the “cost basis” come next April. If the cost basis is the amount I spent on the investment, that’d be the $99.95 number again, which means a tax of about $25.

Profit minus upcoming tax: $157.29

So I spent $99.95 and got $157.29, a real profit of 157%. Not the nearly 200% that Google Finance was teasing me with, but not shabby, either.

The other way to look at it is that since the $99.95 was free money in the first place, I made a profit of infinity dollars.

More importantly, when we take our vacation next month, we’ll have $157 that we otherwise wouldn’t have had. That’s one fancy dinner with some very good wine. I’m looking forward to it.

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When someone who has accumulated debt across a number of credit cards embarks on the journey to rid himself or herself of this debt, and when that person is generating enough monthly income to cover all expenses and the minimum payments due on all cards with additional funds left over, there are two main philosophies describing the best way to achieve this goal. Although all approaches are good, there is no question where I stand on this issue.

I suggest following the path that affords the opportunity to get rid of debt as quickly and as cheaply as possible. This method has many names, but I’ve called it the Debt Avalanche in the past. The opposing viewpoint, popularized by author and guru Dave Ramsey, suggests paying off debt in such a way that it might take more time and be more expensive but offers “quick wins” which help some people gain encouragement and momentum at the earliest stages of the process. And there are, of course, many points of view that present a compromise between these two extremes.

The snowball approach to debt reduction

By ordering your credit card debts from lowest balance to highest balance and paying the minimums to all except the first on the list each month, you will pay off your first debt sooner than by following any other method. If you need encouragement to continue your journey as you pay off debt, you can celebrate after your first credit card has a zero balance.

Not everyone requires this type of extra motivation for paying off debt. Additionally, even those who need extra motivation may not suffer by choosing a cheaper and quicker method of paying off debt. The “quick win” of paying off the first debt could come just as quickly by using the Debt Avalanche. But even if the first payoff doesn’t come as quickly, you can redefine your first milestone to allow yourself helpful celebrations as explained in the next section.

J.D. Roth from Get Rich Slowly has seen success with the Debt Snowball approach, as have many others. It is the most widely marketed philosophy.

For an illustration of the monthly process of sending minimum payments to all credit cards except the one on top, regardless of how the debts are ordered, see this visualization from No Credit Needed.

snowball3

One major problem I have with the above snowball approach is that your largest balance may be significantly more expensive than your smallest balance. Today it is not difficult to find a default interest rate on a credit card north of 30%. There is no way in good conscience I could recommend holding off on eliminating a debt this expensive in favor of paying off a small balance with a 7.9% interest rate. The same goes for payday loans, whose fees can border on usurious if interpreted as interest rates.

The avalanche approach to debt reduction

There is no question that anyone who follows this alternate approach to its conclusion will have emerged from debt sooner and by paying the least amount of interest possible. Some people argue that it is not as likely for someone to follow the Debt Avalanche through, but there are no data to support this. By ordering your credit card debts from the most expensive (highest interest rate) to the least expensive and paying the minimum each month to all cards except the first on the list, you reduce your interest payments quicker.

Since this is a mathematical approach, critics say it doesn’t take into account the emotions that come into play when dealing with money. It is true that emotions — your feelings about money — play an important role in financial decisions, and although this is a mathematical approach, how you feel about money still is represented in this method.

  • If you follow the Debt Avalanche method, you can feel good knowing that you’ve made a sound decision and will spend less money than others who take a different approach.
  • You can motivate yourself throughout by creating your own milestones for achievement, including paying off your first credit card, paying off $1,000 (or some other meaningful amount), or consistently reducing debt for six months (or some other meaningful time frame).
  • Your emotions may be the cause of your debt in the first place. While they obviously cannot be eliminated, learning to focus on the best mathematical approach for certain financial decisions can improve your overall relationship with money.
snowball4

I outlined the details of the Debt Avalanche last year. Trent from The Simple Dollar also likes the Debt Avalanche approach and Five Cent Nickel explains how Dave Ramsey is bad at math.

Other approaches to debt reduction

The hybrid approach. Somewhere between a snowball and an avalanche lives this hybrid. The concept here is simple. Order the credit cards from highest interest rate to lowest, like the Debt Avalanche, but move the card with the lowest balance to the top. This will provide a “quick win” if necessary but could still save significant money and time when compared to the Debt Snowball approach.

Pay the most annoying debts off first. This approach plays directly into the human psyche. The urge to eliminate a persistent itch is strong enough to motivate anyone to scratch, just ask any kid with chicken pox. Stephanie from Poorer Than You is a fan of this approach. This works well when you include debts other than credit cards. If you have a personal loan from a family member, I usually suggest paying that debt off the quickest while paying minimums to your credit card to help retain good will within close relationships.

Baker from Man vs. Debt says the same thing slightly differently: Pay off the debt with the highest emotional impact first. The argument here is simple. For some people the debts with the highest emotional impact are simply the debts with the highest interest rate, while others have a different psychological composition requiring alternate focus. You can’t go wrong by this approach which if continued will help you feel better quicker.

So what is the “right” answer?

It is easy to say, “Do what works for you,” and allow the debtor to come to his or her own conclusions. This can be a dangerous approach as it invites people to skip the consideration of all the options. Many people I’ve talked to who have successfully eliminated debt by using the Debt Snowball method not only found themselves back in debt after some time but did not realize that they could have saved hundreds of dollars and been out of debt sooner just by ranking their credit cards in a different order. They simply followed a guru’s advice without any critical thinking. Not only did they not learn to approach money from a more stable viewpoint but they paid extra money in the form of credit card interest for this “feature.”

Would they have succeeded if they were simply presented the idea that they could save money on their debt reduction journey by following a more mathematical approach? It’s certainly possible.

There is no approach that does not have some sort of merit. Getting out of debt in any way possible is better than not getting out of debt at all. All that I ask is that the details, including the total cost and time differences, are fully explained before a method is prescribed for someone else.

Here’s a calculator that will help inform anyone in debt about the timing and bottom-line differences between the various approaches to eliminating debt. In some cases, the cost of one method over the others will be striking.

An informed decision is the best type of decision. With a full understanding of the differences and is familiar with their own psychological tendencies, someone with debt can make an intelligent choice that is right for the individual or family.

Photo credits: House of Sims, Joe Shlabotnik

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If you’re interested in tracking your money with Intuit Quicken 2009, and you’d like to upgrade to or install the newest versions, there are three days left before prices for the software go up. On June 1, no discounts will be offered on Quicken software, and if discounts do return later, they may be not as generous.

I’ve been an avid Quicken user for several years, after switching from Microsoft Money. It appears that Mac users are unfortunately still out of luck, with no new releases of Quicken for Mac since the 2007 version was released in 2006.

Here are the discounts, valid until the end of May. Note that some discounts have already expired.

Quicken 2009 Home & Business $69.99 ($30 discount)
Quicken 2009 Premier $59.99 ($30 discount)
Quicken 2009 Deluxe $39.99 ($20 discount)
Quicken Mac $69.99 (no discount)
Quicken 2009 Rental Property Manager $99.99 ($50 discount)
Quicken Medical Expense Manager $49.99 ($20 discount)
Quicken Home Inventory Manager $29.99 (no discount)
Quicken Online Edition Quicken Online is free

More discounted Quicken products and other deals are available here.

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See our update with a new code.

Chase is offering a $100 bonus if you open a checking account by July 7, 2009. There is no maintenance fee with this checking account as long as you activate a direct deposit or use your debit card for purchases five times each statement period. There is no minimum balance requirement, but an initial deposit of $100 within sixty days is required to qualify for the bonus.

If you live near a Chase branch, you can take this code with you when you open your account. Otherwise, you can open your account online at Chase’s website.

The coupon codes are good for one use only, so if you want to earn this bonus you must be quick to act.



3471822349438807 (Expires July 7, 2009)

If you have received coupons on the mail which you do not intend to use, please post the codes in the comments so others can take advantage of the bonus. I’ll add any posted bonus codes to this article.

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The latest data show again that you shouldn’t expect to make more money from buying and selling the house you live in than you would from investing in stocks. In fact, you could do better with government-issued inflation-protected bonds. This isn’t just a result of the recent decline in home prices, 19% over the past year. The long term figures show that real estate barely beats inflation.

This doesn’t consider the annual expenses you pay to maintain and live legally in your home, like insurance, association fees, and taxes. In order to compare return from the sale of your home with that from a sale of any other investment, you need to consider the total cost, including the above as well as closing costs, broker fees, and the amount you pay the people who stage your house with fake furniture when you sell. People I have talked to like to take their selling price, subtract their buying price, and state that as their real estate profit, ignoring all the costs they wouldn’t have had if they hadn’t purchased their house.

Your house isn't a good investment

Gurus have long touted real estate as the best method for “getting rich,” but this concept does not compute if your only purchase is the home in which you live unless you get quite lucky. And unless you rent when you sell your house or downsize to a smaller house or a less expensive location, you won’t be able to enjoy the profit, if any.

Rather than looking at your own home as an investment, consider it a cost center that you should try to reduce as much possible to make the most of your purchase.

Is Your Home A Good Investment?, Brett Arents, Wall Street Journal, May 27, 2009
Case-Shiller shows slowing in home-price decline, Reuters, May 26, 2009
Photo credit: jblyberg

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March 9, 2009 was a bad day to retire. On that day, the Dow Jones Industrial Average hit its bottom of 6,547, a low not seen since 1997. If you followed mass-market retirement investing advice, you may have entered retirement with a portfolio 100% invested in a stock market index, like the S&P 500, whose pattern is similar to the Dow.

If you began formally planning a year in advance on March 9, 2008 with a portfolio worth $1,000,000, by the time you retired one year later, that portfolio may have only been worth $600,000. This market drop has left investors feeling betrayed by the long-term promises of a diversified portfolio stocks, usually touting an eight to twelve percent return over long periods of time, depending on whom you ask.

This is no consolation to new retirees who lost 40% or more of their portfolio and have had to change their plans. Unless you cash out your entire investment portfolio on the day you retire, the market drop won’t have a permanent effect on your finances. If you are healthy, you can expect to live several decades in retirement. Your portfolio must be aggressive enough, even in retirement, to last as long as you need it. Stocks might still be an important part of your portfolio in order to achieve the growth necessary for your income from investments to last at least as long as you continue live.

Your house isn't a good investment

The recent downturn has forced people re-evaluate the level of risk they are willing to accept in their portfolios. When the market experiences a multi-year rally, investors are more likely to say they are willing to accept risk if it will increase the chances of long-term growth, while economic recessions frighten investors away from the riskier choices. While these are human instincts, the more you can separate your emotions from your finances, the better you will be off in the long run.

This is a difficult task thanks to the exabytes of information we can access about our own money with the click of a button. We receive quarterly statements from our investment accounts in the mail explaining in plain text how much money we have lost on paper, and these statements do not apologize nor do they include just one frowning emoticon to make us feel better.

While stocks are the best bet for long-term growth, a balanced portfolio should include some bonds to cover retirement funds you may need within ten years. On the date you retire, you should know how much money you’ll need to draw from your investments each year. Your bonds should cover that amount, leaving room for some growth. But that needs to be balanced by your long-term needs in retirement. Having too much invested in bonds runs the risk that your investments will not last throughout the remainder of your life. If your nest egg is small, keeping ten years’ worth of income in bonds may not leave enough of your portfolio left for stocks, if any.

This difficulty is one of the primary reasons people often choose annuities for retirement. You can take a part of your retirement nest egg and buy an insurance product that “promises” a certain absolute return for a set period of time or the remainder of your life. Buying an annuity when you’ve all ready lost 40% of your account value can result in a smaller benefit than you were planning to live on, and that could be a problem.

There is no easy solution to this problem. Even if you don’t retire on the day the stock market hits its lowest point, chances are good the stock market will be significantly down during some point during the next few decades. Here is what I plan on doing:

  • Approaching retirement with an investment allocation among stocks and bonds that matches by true level of risk tolerance. It’s best to measure your risk tolerance during a period in which you are experiencing neither high or low returns on your investments to keep emotions and short-term memory out of the equation.
  • Rebalancing my portfolio periodically to ensure I’m not more exposed to any investment type. As stocks experience a boom, it’s natural to keep money in stocks to ride the wave. Avoid a crash by keeping an eye on the percentages and move money around when the portfolio is unbalanced.
  • Adjusting my asset allocation using the lowest risk investments that will provide the needed returns. Suze Orman, with a portfolio value of $25 million, keeps $24 million invested in bonds. These investments results likely approach $1 million each year. She also investments another $1 million in stocks, an amount she can afford to lose. If annual needs are provided for by an investment offering a lower but more stable return, stick with the lower-risk investments rather than accepting unneeded risks.

What will your portfolio look like when you entire retirement?

Photo credit: Scubabix

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