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Debt Reduction

This is a guest article by Laura, a twenty-something woman working to improve her finances and reduce debt. She writes about personal finance for college students and grads at Green Panda Treehouse.

We’re buying a town house and it has a been a huge learning process. We have been running the numbers and making sure everything works budget wise. While looking through some books and blogs, I noticed some people mention getting a 15 year fixed rate mortgage instead of a 30 year fixed rate mortgage.

Talking with friends and family, many of them advocate getting a 30 year mortgage and paying it off in 15 years. Their reasoning is this gives you some flexibility. I wanted to run the numbers and see if this is a viable solution.

How much money you can save with a 15-year mortgage

Many people may not realize the financial upside of having a fixed 15-year mortgage. Besides paying less total interest, they typically have lower interest rates than 30-year fixed mortgages. Most of your money in the beginning of your mortgage payments goes to interest. As you move further and further along, more and more of your money goes towards principal.

Comparing a $200,000 fixed-rate mortgage for 30 years at 5.25% and a mortgage for 15 years at 5%, you get the following results:

30-Year 15-Year
Monthly Payments: $1,104.41 $1,581.59
Interest Paid: $197,587.59 $84,686.20
Total Paid: $397,587.59 $284,686.19

You save a total of $112,901.39 in interest going with the 15-year fixed mortgage. Could you use that $112,901.39 for something else?

The downside of a 15-year mortgage

The downside for a 15-year mortgage is the same as any other mortgage: affordability. If you can afford a 15-year mortgage comfortably, congratulations. This is a great option for paying less interest over the life of the loan.

If money will be very tight with a 15-year mortgage and you are a bit hesitant with the monthly budget, you have two options:

  • Wait until you have enough buffer room in your monthly budget for a 15 year. Save up while you’re waiting and put down a larger down payment.
  • Decide to get a 30 year loan and come up with a plan to accelerate your loan.

You also have to weigh the opportunity costs of the money difference. That extra money could be redirected to investing more into the stock market for retirement or some other financial decision.

Will you pay a 30-year fixed mortgage in 15-years?

Dave Ramsey mentions the statistic that more than 97% of people who planned to pay their 30-year mortgage in 15-years do not. He has seen from his personal experience running his program that people lack the will power to keep up regularly with mortgage payments.

Ramit also observes that many people believe that they are the exception to the rule. This can lead some to not prepare properly. You may plan on paying your mortgage in 15 years, but if you rely on pure will power, you can set yourself up for failure.

Why pay off a mortgage sooner?

There are a few reasons why someone wants to pay off their mortgage sooner than 30 years. One popular reason is that they want the “peace of mind” in owning their home outright. If they lost their job, or if they experienced a pay cut, people would feel better knowing they did not have a mortgage hanging over their head.

How to accelerate your mortgage payments yourself

You can accelerate your payments even if you have a 30-year fixed rate mortgage. Automating payments can help you pay off your mortgage sooner and avoid some mental barriers to staying focused on your goal. By not managing the payments personally on a on a monthly basis, you can increase your chances of paying off the mortgage a lot sooner.

  1. Start by examining your budget line by line. Know exactly what your actual income and expenses are. This will save you time from adjusting payments often as you realize you overestimated what you can put in.
  2. Have a buffer. If you don’t have a fully funded emergency fund, consider getting that taken care of before accelerating mortgage payments.
  3. Set up an automated payment plan. You can go through your mortgage company or you can go through your online bill pay. Note: Some mortgage companies offer programs to send extra payments but they cost you some money.
  4. Start off with an extra payment that leaves you some wiggle room. As you get a raise in your income, increase your accelerated payments little by little. By adjusting it every year or so with your raise, you are accelerating your payments without missing the money.
  5. Automation is key. You can build your payments up through the years while still having money to invest for retirement, save for other goals, and pay your bills.

This automated system can give you some flexibility in case your income decreases, like a pay cut or lay off. You simply pause or lower your extra payments and put them into your savings account as needed.

Even if you don’t hit the 15 year mark, you will still save tens of thousands of dollars by avoiding more interest payments. Think about it, you’re saving couple of years of salary for less than an hour of work spent on a phone call and online bill payment! I think that’s a great trade off.

Mortgage contact information

If you’re going through your mortgage company, check with them to see if there is a prepayment penalty or any fees associated with the accelerated payments.

  • Bank of America: (866) 642-0987
  • Chase: (866) 461-5953
  • Citi: (800) 283-7918
  • MetLife: (888) 638-6964
  • Wells Fargo: (866) 234-8271

What about you?

What kind of mortgage do you have? Are you prepaying it? Why or why not? What suggestions do you have? Please also share your experience working with the mortgage company on prepaying your loan.

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Yesterday I received an email from a Consumerism Commentary reader who has a question about her mortgage refinancing options and is looking for advice. I tend not to offer too much personal advice, but I responded with some thoughts and offered to open up the discussion to other readers. Please read through and see if you have any thoughts for Heather. Please feel free to leave a comment after this post.

Hi. I’m a long-time reader of your blog, occasional commenter, and I thought you might have an opinion. My husband and I are looking for advice.

We paid $319,900 for our house almost four years ago. We put $120,000 down and got a 30-year fixed at 5.875%.

We were looking at refinancing and were offered 5% with one point, making the total loan around $196,000. We anticipated our house currently being worth roughly $220,000. Using the Fannie Mae Refinance Plus Program, since we did not previously pay mortgage insurance, we would not need to again.

Our appraisal just came in at $190,000. If we want the same rate, we’d now need to pay 2.3 points, which would put our loan at roughly $198,700, which is both a much larger up-front cost but more distressing, it immediately puts us upside down.

We’re not sure if this is still a good decision. Do you have any thoughts?

I initially responded to Heather some additional questions to clarify her situation. Here are more details.

Q: Do you intend and reasonably expect to stay in the house or do you think you might sell and move within the next few years?

A: We are reasonably planning to stay in this house. (In my ideal world, we’d move closer to where I work, but in real life, after having lost so much value and sinking $60K into structural repairs, we’re not going anywhere.)

Q: Are the monthly payments unmanageable with your current mortgage?

A: Our monthly expenses are not unmanageable at all. Besides the mortgage, we have one car loan and one student loan, but no other debt. Both of us are teachers, and both of our districts both gave pay cuts and increased copays/deductibles. So while expenses aren’t necessarily going up, our income went down. My husband decreased his 457 contributions, which I didn’t agree with but it was a fight not worth fighting.

Q: How do you intend to use your freed-up cash flow (such as invest, pay other bills that are being neglected, save, etc.) if you don’t mind sharing.

A: At this point, the $120-ish per month that we’d save would really allow us not to cut back as much. I have a few side interests that I’m hoping will turn profitable, but in the short term, I can’t count on that at all. (I’m good with ideas and with doing, but I’m not good at marketing/selling myself. Working on it.)

Also, we gave the nice refi guy $495 to lock the rate and get the ball moving. At least $350 of that is not refundable, as it paid for the appraisal. I don’t know at this point if the remaining $145 is refundable or not.

We need to get him an answer in the next couple of days, as far as I know.

Happy to answer any other questions as wanted/needed.

Do you have any suggestions for Heather? Please feel free to leave your thoughts in the comments.

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There are many differing opinions about whether you can assign a quality like “good” or “bad” to debt. In general, I tend to believe that if debt is providing access to a necessary asset, like an education, a car, or a house, debt is at the least understandable. With debt, there is always a risk, and when you owe money to any other entity, you are often forced to live by their rules. So if freedom, financial and otherwise, is a goal, one of the major strategies on the path towards that goal is to eliminate your debt.

In an economic environment where your income is more at risk, you may choose to beef up your emergency fund rather than pay off debt. In other situations, debt is often not worth the interest you are required to pay.

Here are 50 things you can do right now to help you get out of debt. Some of these tips will directly help you pay off debt while some will help you save money so you have more cash available to eliminate that debt.

  1. Link your debt account to your savings account and set up automated payments.
  2. Stop using your credit cards.
  3. Decide on a debt repayment method that makes sense for you while understanding the pros and cons of each.
  4. Plan a party for each milestone, but don’t go into debt in order to celebrate.
  5. Pay cash.
  6. Empty the change from your pockets into a change jar each day.
  7. Deposit that cash each month and transfer the amount to your larges or most expensive debt.
  8. Make a second mortgage payment or car payment each month if you’re not penalized for doing so.
  9. Cancel magazine subscriptions and divert that money towards your debt.
  10. Postpone your vacation until you are out of debt.
  11. Track your spending.
  12. Stop watching television, particularly the commercials.
  13. Don’t fall for Keeping Up With the Joneses; they’re in more debt than you.
  14. Avoid scams and gurus that promise to make you rich quickly.
  15. Learn how to cook rather than dining out.
  16. Downsize your lifestyle: move into a less expensive house or apartment.
  17. Divert the full amount of your raise directly to your debt.
  18. Sell your unneeded stuff on eBay or Craiglist.
  19. Give away anything you can’t sell.
  20. Dispose of anything you can’t give away.
  21. Put your credit cards in a cup of water in the freezer.
  22. Call the credit card issuers to selectively cancel your credit cards.
  23. Review your three free annual credit reports to ensure you’re aware of all of your debt.
  24. Get your free credit score from CreditKarma as often as you like.
  25. Involve your family and friends by letting them know of your plan.
  26. Start a personal finance blog to chronicle your debt reduction adventure.
  27. Use the library rather than buying books at the bookstore, renting movies from Netflix or the store, and buying CDs from Amazon.com.
  28. Realize the ability to eliminate debt is completely within your control.
  29. Use extra time to turn your hobby into a money-making business.
  30. Modify your budget and find room to use more of your income to pay off debt.
  31. Grow your own food in a garden.
  32. When you need to replace your car, buy a used model with a great track record.
  33. Wait before adopting the latest technologies until they are no longer the “latest.”
  34. Remove the temptation to spend on things you like rather than the things you need.
  35. Use smart credit card balance transfers to make your debt less expensive.
  36. Improve your health to lower your health care expenses, and use those savings to reduce debt.
  37. Quit smoking to save money and health expenses.
  38. Read more blogs and personal success stories about getting out of debt.
  39. Cancel your cable service.
  40. Gradually increase your thermostat one degree each week during the summer or decrease it one degree each week during the winter.
  41. Eliminate expensive hobbies that do not provide a return on your investment.
  42. Stop trying to time the market and invest in individual stocks, and use that money to pay off your debt.
  43. Downgrade your phone from your expensive iPhone or BlackBerry plan to a basic service without extra features.
  44. Set up motivational reminders or alerts in your calendar software.
  45. Save first, then spend, for everything.
  46. Create subaccounts at ING Direct to identify money destined for eliminating debt.
  47. Organize your bills in a system that ensures you won’t lose them or pay them late.
  48. Always pay your bills on time, the earlier the better.
  49. Don’t acquire more debt.
  50. Speak up! Be part of a community; any tough task is made easier by working together and sharing ideas.

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While it’s great to avoid debt whenever possible, if you have to deal with federal student loans, including Stafford and PLUS loans, you might qualify for some better deals starting July 1.

Interest rates will be at the lowest rates in years. If you can consolidate, lock in rates after July 1. They will be at the lowest levels since the inception of the federal student loan program. The interest rate for graduates who are in a grace period is 2.00%.

Former students now in the process of repaying their variable rate federal student loans will be able to lock in a rate of 2.50%. Parents who have taken PLUS loans will be able to consolidate at 3.38%.

There aren’t many places to find cheaper money than this, but there are a few of limitations:

  • Former students who have already consolidated are not eligible for these low rates.
  • These rates are only valid for loans originated before July 1, 2006.
  • Borrowers who are still in school do not qualify for consolidation.

There is more good news.

Income-based repayment. If a borrower is not earning enough to make monthly payments, they can apply for income-based repayment. The lender can extend the life of the loan and lower your payments to 15% of your income.

Student loan forgiveness. Borrowers who work for non-profit companies or the government will qualify for student loan forgiveness. After 120 payments (ten years), the government will write off any balance remaining on the loan. Student loan forgiveness applies to people who do not work for the public sector as well if they are repaying on an income-based repayment plan. In this case, 25 years of payments are necessary before the remainder of the loan will be forgiven, but will be considered income for tax purposes.

Rates for new student loans. Subsidized Stafford student loans will sport a new interest rate of 5.6% if the first disbursement is taken between July 1, 2009 and June 30, 2010. This is the second of four annual interest rate drops for new loans.

Increased Pell Grant scholarship maximum. Low and middle-income families might qualify for a Pell Grant scholarship. The maximum a student might receive from this federal program will increase on July 1 to $5,350.

These programs can save families thousands of dollars throughout the life of the repayment.

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On a macro level, debt was a force behind the incredible economic expansion over the past two centuries, and the availability of debt at the family level played a role as well. Despite all that debt has brought society, many financial gurus and authors vilify debt and explicitly call the idea of borrowing money “evil.” Typical mass-produced financial advice often calls for avoiding debt as much as possible. Is this a realistic goal in economically developed nations in the twenty-first century?

For some, it is. There is no doubt that there are many ways families can survive and thrive while avoiding the need to borrow money at all. Avoidance of all debt can be a struggle for most families, particularly in today’s United States. Are the sacrifices worth the effort?

To join in this discussion, you must accept that debt is not evil. All forms of money are tools to simplify the exchange of goods and services. As tools are objects with no inner consciousness, they can neither be good nor evil, as these words indicate a nature of intentions. Intentions require a sophisticated neural network, something lacking as much in money as it is lacking in a doorknob.

If you’re still with me and you agree that borrowing money is not an evil concept, you might also agree that the tool of debt could possibly be used for both wise and unwise decisions, designed by the active neural networks in human beings (the tool-wielders).

From a pure numerical viewpoint

Even though amounts and values of money are normally symbolized by numbers, money is never solely about digits on a ledger. If it were, there would be only one reason to go into debt: an opportunity to use someone else’s money to earn more money than what is borrowed — a sure thing. If I offered you $10,000 without interest with the only caveat that you repay me slowly each month and in full by the end of twelve months, it would be wise to accept the offer, invest the $10,000 in a safe investment like a high-yield savings account, pay me back, and keep the interest you’ve earned for yourself without much effort.

This is what credit cards have been offering, though less frequently recently, with 0% balance transfer offers, or so they’d like you to believe. If you look deeper, there are usually some risks:

  • The credit card companies might drop the promotion.
  • If you fail to make a payment in time, even if your check arrives on someone’s desk one minute too late, you will owe interest to the credit card.
  • The bank might lower the interest rate you are earning in the savings account to a point where the exercise is not worthwhile.
  • Your credit score will decrease due to an increased utilization ratio, forcing you to pay more for new loans or mortgages.

The numbers are trickier when you question whether to take on debt at a higher interest rate with the possibility of earning more from a riskier investment, like stocks. Here you have to weigh the probability of not earning more than the interest you will be charged for borrowing the money.

In the end it is a judgment call. You could devise complex algorithms to help you to decide whether to borrow money at one rate for the possibility of earning a higher return on an investment, but anything can happen.

Debt for education

University of Delaware Campus

One of the most prominent rationalizations for accepting debt for education, like student loans, is from the purely mathematical viewpoint. People who go to college earn more throughout their lifetime than people who do not. The numbers show that in many cases, money spent for college, including interest payments lasting ten years after graduation, are worthwhile thanks to increased career opportunities and salaries. On average, an individual with a Bachelor’s degree will earn twice as much as an individual with only a high school diploma, though the statistics will differ depending on the field of study and the career.

Thus, it often makes mathematical sense to enter into debt to obtain a Bachelor’s degree, if necessary. There are ways to avoid education debt, such as having parents who have earned and saved enough money to fully fund the education, choosing a free or less expensive school, obtaining grants or scholarships, or even working. When these options fail, the possibility remains that choosing to attend and graduate from a certain college and accruing debt will be a better decision than not earning the degree at all.

Student loans can generally be found with low interest rates or with a portion of the interest being subsidized by the government because it is in society’s best interest to produce a well-educated workforce and thinkforce.

Your career’s start-up expenses

When a new company is formed with a visionary idea, there are often required start-up expenses. These include finding real estate for an office or storefront, furnishing the office or acquiring inventory, hiring employees and paying them salaries, and spreading the word about the new business. I like to compare this process with a recently-graduated student entering a career. Unless the business has received help from investors (who often require that they become part owners), these start-up companies rely on loans.

Similarly, in some cases new employees can be excused for using debt to put them in a competitive position for starting their careers. Dressing appropriately and presenting a professional appearance requires expenditures for which a newly-minted graduate may not be financially prepared. (This is one reason I suggested the gift of clothing or gift cards for recent graduates.) Attending networking events, sending out resumes and traveling to interviews are all start-up expenses that must be financed in order to land the right job.

That first job is an important indicator of the remainder of your career, particularly if you remain in the same career path your entire life (as fewer people do). The better placed and paid you are in your first job, the higher your income will be throughout your career.

If necessary, a moderate amount of debt at the point you start your career will provide the opportunities to place you in a better position for future earning.

Owning a house

McMansion

Thanks to the prevalence and availability of debt, consumers have reached higher and higher beyond their means. In the 1960s, median house prices were about 2.5 times the median annual household salary and at the height of the housing market in the early part of this century, the multiple was around 5 (source). Saving to pay for a house with cash could take years or even decades.

During the height of the housing frenzy, many families were willing to take on debt using the above numerical viewpoint. House prices seemed to go up without fail, and the prospect of earning more by leveraging a house purchase with debt seemed to make financial sense. Unfortunately, the underlying assumption that real estate prices always increase proved to be incorrect and many families were hurt due to over-leverage.

But that doesn’t mean that it’s never wise to buy a house with help from a loan. Buying a home should not be a purely financial decision. Families often want to create a stable home environment, and settling down in a location with the intent to stay for several decades is a key component of that idea. Furthermore, families with children want to ensure that the free public education offers a quality experience, and regions known for excellent education, in high demand, will often be more expensive.

A mortgage, while a decades-long debt sentence, is not evil. It makes sense for families to live in the best location they desire if they can afford the debt payments.

When else is debt worthwhile?

If you accept debt into your life, there are sacrifices you will need to make. You will also need to accept other sacrifices if you refuse to enter debt. It comes down to personal choice. Is it crazy to be willing to accept debt, as long as it is affordable and well-purposed? Or do you agree with idea that money is a non-intentioned tool, to be used in whatever situation logically calls for it? Are there any other instances where it can be a smart decision to take on debt?

Photo credits: mathplourde, snapped_up

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Not only are most personal bankruptcies due to medical bills beyond the ability of the consumer to pay, but most of the households declaring bankruptcy for this reason do so despite having health insurance coverage.

Researchers from Harvard Law School, Harvard Medical School, and Ohio University reported 60 percent of personal bankruptcies in the United States involved medical bills, an increase of 50 percent over the past six years. Furthermore, seventy-five percent of those bankruptcies were claimed despite having health insurance, intended to cover medical expenses and prevent unaffordable bills.

The researchers indicated that only 29 percent of those who declared bankruptcy explicitly cite medical bills as the cause, but the 60 percent figure includes households with medical bills totaling more than 10 percent of family income.

Health insurance appears to be useless when it is most needed. Twenty-five percent of insurance companies cancel coverage immediately when an individual covered suffers a disabling illness. Within a year, another twenty-five percent of insurers cancel coverage.

Even with medical coverage, here are the average bills, out of pocket, for some of the most expensive conditions:

  • Multiple sclerosis: $34,167
  • Diabetes: $26,971
  • Injuries: $25,096
  • Stroke: $23,380
  • Heart disease: $21,955

The study was funded by the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation and will appear in the August edition of the American Journal of Medicine.

Medical bills underlie 60 percent of U.S. bankruptcies: study, Reuters, June 4, 2009

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Yesterday, Consumerism Commentary reader Ryan suggested I write about interest-only mortgages.

There is no such thing as an “interest-only mortgage.” Wouldn’t that be nice, though, to have a mortgage that did not require you to pay any principal back to the lender? Unfortunately, when you become a borrower, your lender will insist upon receiving interest payments as well as principal at some point. What does exist, however, is an interest-only payment option for mortgages. The interest-only payment option can apply to adjustable-rate mortgages and fixed-rate mortgages alike. The purpose is to allow borrowers to reduce monthly payments for a period of time. Rather than a monthly payment of $1,200, in which $600 goes to interest and $600 goes to the principal, the monthly payment would only be $600.

The lower monthly payments during the interest-only period are good for households with irregular income such as commission payments less frequent than monthly, or households with unpredictable income, like that of a business owner who is expecting low income while the business is in a period of growth.

Interest-only payment options also allow borrowers to “afford” a more expensive home. This can be important for an executive who needs to entertain clients at home and its appearance is crucial to career success, but there could be a strong desire to use the lower payments to buy a home beyond the means of the borrower.

This is a dangerous prospect, especially in an environment where we can’t be sure whether the value of the house will rise in the short term. While making interest-only payments, the borrower is not building equity in the house. if the borrower is not building equity, the concept is similar to renting, particularly if home values are stagnant or decline. The amount you owe on the mortgage will never decrease. Even worse, some interest-only payments don’t cover the full amount of interest due each month. The excess, non-paid interest would then be tacked onto the principal, causing the borrower to owe more in principal than the home was worth when purchased.

When house values are declining, like they have been in many areas of the United States, this problem is compounded. Not only does the borrower owe the full purchased value of the house while making the interest-only payments, but the house’s declining values means the borrower will quickly owe more than the home is worth. Then, if it is sold, the borrower could owe more money to the lender than he received in the sale.

Interest-only payment options don’t last forever. After the interest-only period ends, the lender will expect the borrower to start paying back the principal. This can result in a significant increase in the number written on the checks sent to the lender. If the income hasn’t increased as expected or if the business has not moved past the “growth” stage, the new payment — a larger payment than you would have had throughout the life of the mortgage if the interest-only option was not selected — might be unaffordable.

The Federal Reserve Board has a helpful comparison chart outlining the differences in payments you might expect if you choose an interest-only payment option, reproduced below. Notice how low the equity is in the last column, identifying borrowers who opt for the interest-only method.

Interest-only mortgage payment comparison

Do you have or have you had an interest-only payment option on a mortgage? Please share your experiences or opinions.

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When someone who has accumulated debt across a number of credit cards embarks on the journey to rid himself or herself of this debt, and when that person is generating enough monthly income to cover all expenses and the minimum payments due on all cards with additional funds left over, there are two main philosophies describing the best way to achieve this goal. Although all approaches are good, there is no question where I stand on this issue.

I suggest following the path that affords the opportunity to get rid of debt as quickly and as cheaply as possible. This method has many names, but I’ve called it the Debt Avalanche in the past. The opposing viewpoint, popularized by author and guru Dave Ramsey, suggests paying off debt in such a way that it might take more time and be more expensive but offers “quick wins” which help some people gain encouragement and momentum at the earliest stages of the process. And there are, of course, many points of view that present a compromise between these two extremes.

The snowball approach to debt reduction

By ordering your credit card debts from lowest balance to highest balance and paying the minimums to all except the first on the list each month, you will pay off your first debt sooner than by following any other method. If you need encouragement to continue your journey as you pay off debt, you can celebrate after your first credit card has a zero balance.

Not everyone requires this type of extra motivation for paying off debt. Additionally, even those who need extra motivation may not suffer by choosing a cheaper and quicker method of paying off debt. The “quick win” of paying off the first debt could come just as quickly by using the Debt Avalanche. But even if the first payoff doesn’t come as quickly, you can redefine your first milestone to allow yourself helpful celebrations as explained in the next section.

J.D. Roth from Get Rich Slowly has seen success with the Debt Snowball approach, as have many others. It is the most widely marketed philosophy.

For an illustration of the monthly process of sending minimum payments to all credit cards except the one on top, regardless of how the debts are ordered, see this visualization from No Credit Needed.

snowball3

One major problem I have with the above snowball approach is that your largest balance may be significantly more expensive than your smallest balance. Today it is not difficult to find a default interest rate on a credit card north of 30%. There is no way in good conscience I could recommend holding off on eliminating a debt this expensive in favor of paying off a small balance with a 7.9% interest rate. The same goes for payday loans, whose fees can border on usurious if interpreted as interest rates.

The avalanche approach to debt reduction

There is no question that anyone who follows this alternate approach to its conclusion will have emerged from debt sooner and by paying the least amount of interest possible. Some people argue that it is not as likely for someone to follow the Debt Avalanche through, but there are no data to support this. By ordering your credit card debts from the most expensive (highest interest rate) to the least expensive and paying the minimum each month to all cards except the first on the list, you reduce your interest payments quicker.

Since this is a mathematical approach, critics say it doesn’t take into account the emotions that come into play when dealing with money. It is true that emotions — your feelings about money — play an important role in financial decisions, and although this is a mathematical approach, how you feel about money still is represented in this method.

  • If you follow the Debt Avalanche method, you can feel good knowing that you’ve made a sound decision and will spend less money than others who take a different approach.
  • You can motivate yourself throughout by creating your own milestones for achievement, including paying off your first credit card, paying off $1,000 (or some other meaningful amount), or consistently reducing debt for six months (or some other meaningful time frame).
  • Your emotions may be the cause of your debt in the first place. While they obviously cannot be eliminated, learning to focus on the best mathematical approach for certain financial decisions can improve your overall relationship with money.
snowball4

I outlined the details of the Debt Avalanche last year. Trent from The Simple Dollar also likes the Debt Avalanche approach and Five Cent Nickel explains how Dave Ramsey is bad at math.

Other approaches to debt reduction

The hybrid approach. Somewhere between a snowball and an avalanche lives this hybrid. The concept here is simple. Order the credit cards from highest interest rate to lowest, like the Debt Avalanche, but move the card with the lowest balance to the top. This will provide a “quick win” if necessary but could still save significant money and time when compared to the Debt Snowball approach.

Pay the most annoying debts off first. This approach plays directly into the human psyche. The urge to eliminate a persistent itch is strong enough to motivate anyone to scratch, just ask any kid with chicken pox. Stephanie from Poorer Than You is a fan of this approach. This works well when you include debts other than credit cards. If you have a personal loan from a family member, I usually suggest paying that debt off the quickest while paying minimums to your credit card to help retain good will within close relationships.

Baker from Man vs. Debt says the same thing slightly differently: Pay off the debt with the highest emotional impact first. The argument here is simple. For some people the debts with the highest emotional impact are simply the debts with the highest interest rate, while others have a different psychological composition requiring alternate focus. You can’t go wrong by this approach which if continued will help you feel better quicker.

So what is the “right” answer?

It is easy to say, “Do what works for you,” and allow the debtor to come to his or her own conclusions. This can be a dangerous approach as it invites people to skip the consideration of all the options. Many people I’ve talked to who have successfully eliminated debt by using the Debt Snowball method not only found themselves back in debt after some time but did not realize that they could have saved hundreds of dollars and been out of debt sooner just by ranking their credit cards in a different order. They simply followed a guru’s advice without any critical thinking. Not only did they not learn to approach money from a more stable viewpoint but they paid extra money in the form of credit card interest for this “feature.”

Would they have succeeded if they were simply presented the idea that they could save money on their debt reduction journey by following a more mathematical approach? It’s certainly possible.

There is no approach that does not have some sort of merit. Getting out of debt in any way possible is better than not getting out of debt at all. All that I ask is that the details, including the total cost and time differences, are fully explained before a method is prescribed for someone else.

Here’s a calculator that will help inform anyone in debt about the timing and bottom-line differences between the various approaches to eliminating debt. In some cases, the cost of one method over the others will be striking.

An informed decision is the best type of decision. With a full understanding of the differences and is familiar with their own psychological tendencies, someone with debt can make an intelligent choice that is right for the individual or family.

Photo credits: House of Sims, Joe Shlabotnik

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