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Debt Reduction

Recently, famous finance guru Suze Orman, who usually doles out sensible advice even if in an disrespectful manner, has advised the public to stop paying off credit card debt any faster than minimum payments allow in order to shore up a savings account that could last eight months in an income emergency. According to this recent advice, the economy has changed in such a way that interest payments on debt are small prices to pay for the disaster of a personal recession.

It’s fair to say that Orman has a valid point for some. For example, this advice should be directed to a person whose income depends on a job from which he or she might be soon laid off, if that job is in an industry in which it will be difficult to find a new job, and if he or she won’t settle for a lesser job in while searching for a full replacement. But that describes only a small sample of the population. Orman is painting the picture with too broad a brush.

Liz Pulliam Weston recently pointed out this disagreement with Suze Orman. Weston points out that paying only the minimum to credit cards identifies you as a risky customer. Risky customers are punished by credit card issuers with increased rates and lowered credit limits, in some cases, without advance notice. Besides the direct effect of less available credit and higher interest payments, these actions have an unfortunate downstream effect. It is likely that this will result in a lower credit score.

Again unfortunately, much of modern society relies on a credit score. Your credit is checked when you apply for a loan or mortgage. But it is also checked when insurance companies determine your rates. Auto insurers have found that low credit scores, or credit risk in general, correlates to a risk of dangerous driving. Therefore the insurers feel justified in charging customers with lower credit scores higher premiums for the same coverage. Some employers check credit reports and scores to determine whether hiring you may present an undue risk to the company. And landlords check credit reports and scores when deciding whether you are fit to lease an apartment.

It’s very difficult to function in modern society without a credit history, and a good credit score and clean report goes a long way to make sure you can operate and navigate through life smoothly. Suze Orman’s advice might put that at risk in exchange for an oversize emergency fund in an environment in which the interest you can earn on savings is very low. It could take years to build up eight months’ worth of expenses in cash reserves, and paying only the minimum towards credit cards during that time will prolong and increase the cost of debt. If the minimum payments don’t even cover the amount of new interest charged, by following Suze Orman’s advice, you would be condemning yourself to a life controlled by debt and the credit card companies.

Suze Orman’s advice might be sensible for some people, but it’s important to think about the consequences of all but abandoning the elimination of debt. Where do you stand on Suze Orman’s advice to forgo debt repayment in favor of an eight-month emergency fund?

A Change in Credit Card Strategy, Suze Orman, March 1, 2009
Bad advice from Suze Orman, Liz Pulliam Weston, MSN Money, April 23, 2009

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I will admit that the title of this post is a bit inflammatory. I should specify that the more accurate number one frugality tip should be “Don’t be a woman (or a man, but in our society, mostly a woman) obsessed with beauty.” Newsweek illustrates this by breaking down the cost of female beauty maintenance over a lifetime in a recent article, linked below.

According to the study, the average “modern diva” will spend over $200,000 on hair alone. Add in the expenses for maintaining a beautiful face, body, hands and feet, and the average lifetime expense climbs to almost $450,000.

The Newsweek editors go into further detail by splitting the expense by age group. The graphic below shows how much a woman will spend throughout her “tweens”.

Now, I don’t judge. If you have the money to spend, spend it. But it’s better to be conscious about these costs than to let them go by without thinking about them.

The Newsweek study doesn’t go far enough, however. While they’ve provided details about the expenses, they haven’t studied the effect that spending money on beauty will have on a woman’s income or other levels of success. For example, one theoretical possibility is that a lifetime expense of $450,000 for conforming yourself to what the rest of the world considers “beautiful” will result in a lifetime increase of income of $1,000,000. If that is the case, it would be hard to argue than the price of beauty was not well spent.

Tween's Expenses for Beauty

And in real life, return on investment (ROI) is measured in other ways than money. If for whatever reason, spending money to fit into a certain category makes a person happier, and she can’t find happiness by any other means, how can you argue against spending the money if it is available? If the money is not available, and our diva relies on debt to finance vanity, the true cost out of the pocket could be much greater.

According to the survey’s methodolody, invasive procedures like breast implants and liposuction were not considered in the totals. You can view the raw data here or view the Newsweek story that offers a browsable interface.

Any divas out there? Can you cut back on spending on beauty or is it a justified expense?

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A few months short of five years ago, I purchased a new 2004 Honda Civic to replace a failing older model that had not been in my care. Today, this “new” car is passing 100,000 miles on the odometer, and it’s still running great. While I occasionally find my mind wandering towards the purchase of something sportier, at this time, I plan on sticking with the Civic until maintenance costs more than the car is worth. I hope to stretch ownership for another 100,000 miles.

Here are the expenses I’ve put into the car so far:

Accessories $745
Insurance $9,894
Interest on Auto Loan $413
Fuel $7,042
Parking $302
Registration $239
Service $3,208
Tolls $3,645

The main accessory I purchased was a lower-end GPS device, which was ultimately stolen from the car while it was parked for the weekend in a particularly bad parking space in Queens, New York. I never replaced the device. The next most expensive accessory was a replacement stereo that fully integrated with my iPod. The service category includes regularly scheduled maintenance as well as a slew of oil changes. It also includes my $500 deductible after a “minor” accident, a tire replacement after one was punctured and unrepairable, and a couple of traffic tickets.

I paid off my non-industry auto loan with an interest rate of 2% somewhat quicker to keep my total interest expense down to $413. Also, according to edmunds.com, my car has depreciated a total of $7,580 since it was purchased.

Many of the expenses should be controlled better, and it may be time to re-evaluate my insurance coverage.

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Occasionally, readers email me with questions about their own personal finances. Considering I share so much of my own, it’s always interesting to get a peek into the issues other people are concerned about. In fact, right now, I am actively seeking reader questions to serve as launching points for a discussion I plan to have with Ramit from I Will Teach You to Be Rich.

I always remind people that I am not a financial professional, and whenever seeking free advice, you get what you pay for. But that doesn’t mean I can’t have some opinions or thoughts, and by sharing questions with Consumerism Commentary readers, we can usually come up with some good suggestions.

Here is the latest question I received, from Gerry:

I currently have two rather large students loan. One at $30,000 (4.5%) and one at $15,000 (2.5%). I pay about $300/month towards the larger one and $125/month towards the smaller one.

I was wondering if any bank might ever offer a 6 month or 12 month loan at a lower interest rate. Could I take a $2,000 or $3,000 loan and throw it at the larger loan and pay the bank back instead. Would this even make sense for me?

Note: I am also in school, so my loans are in deferment, but I still make the above payments.

The reader is off to a great financial start by beginning to pay off deferred student loans while still in college. In most cases, students do not need to begin paying off student loans until six months after they end their enrollment (preferrably at graduation), so this head start will be beneficial when living expenses increase a few years down the road.

It’s hard to find better deals for borrowing than student loans. There is only a low probability of finding a bank that will offer a loan at a lower interest rate than 4.5% to pay off an existing loan. If finding a rate lower than 4.5% is important, I would suggest using your “social capital” and ask for the money from a relative. This is a risky proposition; personal loans can be dangerous for the health of the relationship, so this is an option one should consider carefully.

Students with deferred loans have the flexibility now not to make payments if they are causing a financial strain. I would consider taking advantage of that flexibility when it is available. While it’s admirable to pay off the loans early — no debt is “good” debt — student loans are deferred because it allows students to focus on their education rather than trying to find work to create an income.

Am I off the mark? What advice would you give Gerry?

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Taking the first few steps to ensure your future financial stability can be daunting. There is so much to do, trying to decide where to start can result in wasted time, and wasted time is wasted money. Eliminating debt is often the first priority, and rightly so. If debt is in the form of credit cards, interest payments could be a massive drag on finances. Credit card companies love offering low minimum payments because they know that consumers who pay only the minimum, and continue adding more debt, will be customers for life. How else could the system get away with taking $20,000 from a customer who purchased a computer worth $1,500?

If you are spending less than you earn, you have the capacity to divert your excess income to long-term savings, debt payments, and an emergency fund. You probably have a desire to put all of you excess income towards reducing that debt, and that’s understandable. Mathematically, that makes the most sense. Credit card interest could accrue at an annual rate of 9.9%, 14.9%, 29.9%, or even worse. It’s highly unlikely that your money can earn that much in any other safe investment over the long term, so paying off debt gives you the most bang for your buck. It’s simple math.

Simple math doesn’t always have the answer when it comes to your money. No, I am not advocating taking emotions into account. Doing what “feels right” isn’t the best option here. But the point is that there are more mathematics to weigh than just interest rates, and it’s the type of math that you can’t plug into online debt payment calculators.

I’ll explain. By diverting all of your excess money to debt repayment without beefing up your savings, you are taking a risk. You are betting that nothing will cause you to incur more debt during the payoff process. Even though your money in a savings account will not earn as much as the amount you’ll save by paying off debt, you have to take into account “known unknowns” and “unknown unknowns.” As the chief financial officer (CFO) of your own life, you have to manage that risj in addition to counting dollars and cents in the bank.

People in corporations get paid lots of money to perform risk management, and if the current financial crisis teaches us anything, it’s that risk managers don’t always do their job perfectly. It is difficult when dealing with issues facing large corporations and industry leaders, but for most people who deal only with loans, credit card debt, future expenses, and investments, risk management can be boiled to its most basic form: have an emergency fund. How can this be applied to paying off debt? Is the emergency fund more important?

If you direct all your excess money to paying off debt, you are likely to fall back into debt the moment an emergency arises. If your water heater breaks and all your money has been directed to your credit cards, you will have to use a credit card again to pay for the repair. You’ve taken one step forward, but now you’re forced to take two, three or four steps backward.

My suggestion is to balance building an emergency fund with paying off debt. When you are ready to divert your excess income to improving your financial condition, start with defining two goals: pay off all of your debt without acquiring more and build a solid emergency fund, which depending on the economy and the market for your skills, might consist of three months’, six months’ or one year’s worth of expenses. Don’t know your monthly expenses? Track where your money is going first.

Start by funding a base for your emergency fund. Pay the minimum to your credit cards or other debt, don’t accrue new debt, and send any extra money to a high-yield savings account until you’ve built one month’s worth of expenses. This will allow you to mitigate some risk while paying down your debt.

Once you’ve reached a one-month buffer, start sending extra money to your credit card with the highest interest rate. I suggest allocating 75% of your excess funds to this first targeted credit card (using the Debt Avalanche method) and 25% to your emergency fund. Keep sending money to your emergency fund month after month until your savings account cushion reaches the goal set above.

Once that target is reached, 100% of your surplus can be directed towards your highest interest rate card. You can rest easily with the knowledge that even while you’ve dramatically reduced the money you throw away to interest payments, you’re financially protected against a temporary loss of income or the typical emergencies you might face. This is just my opinion; maybe you have some thoughts that might be better. Doing anything is better than doing nothing. Do what works for you, if you’ve educated yourself.

Got questions? I (Flexo) and Ramit from I Will Teach You to be Rich are teaming up to answer all of your questions about money. Ask us questions today!

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Occasionally, Consumerism Commentary readers email me with financial questions. If you want to see a topic discussed here, you can do this as well. Just email me at flexo or tips at this domain name. I can’t answer every email personally, but I’ll do my best to connect you with the resources you need.

Last week, I received this question from Justin about auto loan refinancing:

I’m interested in refinancing my car loan. I was younger and dumber when I bought my car, so I didn’t pay much attention to the financing side of it. I am currently in a 11.96%, 72-month loan, and I’ve knocked off about 2 years so far. I have good credit so I know I could get a better loan. Do you at least have some tips for me as to where to start looking?

With good credit, you should definitely be able to find a better deal, saving you hundreds if not thousands of dollars over the course of the loan. My first inclination is to check BankRate for a comparison of rates for auto refinance loans. Interestingly, the only loan available through BankRate for my location was a 36-month loan through a lender called “up2drive” for 6.90%. I am not convinced that BankRate is providing me with a full picture of what might be available.

I would start with the local banks with whom I already have a relationship. For me, this would consist of Wachovia and TD Bank, but if you are a member or could become a member of a credit union, they often can provide deals you may not find from a traditional bank.

If you’re interested in comparing refinance options to determine how much you might save through the course of the loan, take a look at this calculator. It is designed for home mortgages but the calculation is the same for auto loans.

When you do refinance, unless you choose a shorter period than your original loan, you’ll be extending the total number of payments you’ll make, although those payments will be smaller. I would suggest, if possible, to pay more than your monthly amount if the terms of your new loan don’t penalize you for doing so. To make the most of the money you spend on cars,, pay off the loan as soon as possible and keep the car as long as possible. Don’t feel that you need to buy a new (or new-to-you) car once you stop sending monthly payments to the bank.

I have never refinanced an auto loan. I’ve had loans on two cars at different times, both Honda Civics. The first I sold when I no longer needed a car for work, and used the proceeds to pay off the loan. The second was financed outside of the banking system at a low rate at 2%. This was a loan with a family member, a situation that led me to go outside a strict debt avalanche system and pay off the debt as soon as possible.

I would welcome additional comments and suggestions from readers who have experience with auto loan refinancing or who have thoughts to share on the topic.

Photo credit: tomsaint11

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Neither a borrower nor a lender be;
For loan oft loses both itself and friend,
And borrowing dulls the edge of husbandry.

That’s a well-known quotation from William Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Polonius was perhaps concerned about, among other things, the public shame that could come from being a deadbeat borrower. As he proferred this and other advice to his son, Polonius may have been thinking about the possibility of seeing Laërtes’ name listed on uradeadbeat.com (read: you are a deadbeat dot com).

Uradeadbeat.com lets anyone post messages and stories about a company or person who owes money. In addition to the public listing on the website, uradeadbeat.com provides a direct service. They will email the deadbeat to inform them of the listing. If you provide an address, the website will also send a postcard.

All deadbeats have a chance to respond to the accusation. According to the site owner, some deadbeats were inspired to pay back their debts as a result of this public shaming.

It’s free to post a complaint, but in the future it will not be a free service.

This probably isn’t the best way to get someone who owes you money to pay up, but it might be a good option as a last resort.

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For several years, interest rates on high-yield savings accounts were high enough to justify choosing to leave extra money in savings accounts rather than using that money to pay off certain debts faster. I was paying only the minimum payment on my consolidated student loan. The loan’s interest rate was 4.25% and I had been earning a little more than that in savings after taxes.

At that time, there was no urgency to pay off the low-interest debt, but the financial climate started to change at the end of last year. Interest available on high-yield savings accounts began to dwindle. By the end of 2007, I decided to eliminate my student loan, my only debt, by the end of 2008. At that time, I had about $13,000 remaining on the loan and had been making payments of my minimum, less than $150, each month.

I had enough cash available at that time to write one check for the $13,000 to eliminate the loan entirely, but I decided it was important for me to keep cash in the bank for flexibility. In January, February, and March, I doubled my monthly payment to $250 to cover interest and principal. In April and May, I paid $500 towards the student loan. For the rest of 2008, I continued to increase my payments through September. In October, with about $6,300 left on the loan, I directed half of the remaining balance to the student loan, leaving about $3,150. I again sliced the remaining debt in half in November.

On Friday, I paid off the remaining $1,500. The payment has cleared today, so I am officially out of debt.

At least for the time being.

If I’ve learned anything from television and other debt-focused blogs it is that I should be jumping up and down with excitement. The fight against debt is often a struggle, especially when that debt is acquired through poor choices. But I feel mostly ambivalent about the achievement. It has helped that I’m earning more than just my day job salary, and thanks to this extra income, I did not have to sacrifice much in order to achieve my target of paying off this debt by the end of 2008. Unlike many struggling with debt, my pursuit is not due to excessive spending. My treatment of debt was not perfect, however.

I graduated in January 1998, but by August 2003, I still had about $4,000 left of my undergraduate student loan. In 2003, I decided to pursue a master’s degree in business. 90% of the tuition (and 0% of the additional fees) would be covered by my employer. Rather than having the company pay the university directly, I allowed the school’s financial aid adviser to convince me to open a loan and use my company’s reimbursements to pay back that loan.

With a long-term view, it was a poor decision. I wonder if the university’s financial aid adviser is instructed to suggest the loan even when expenses are reimbursed because the university makes more money with that option.

With a short-term view, it may have been necessary. At the time, I was not earning much money outside of my day job — my blogging activities didn’t begin earning money until 2004 — and my level of expenses dangerously approached my level of income on a regular basis.

Rather than using my reimbursements to repay the loan, I occasionally deposited the checks into my checking or savings account, allowing the loan to grow. If I had skipped the loan option and decided to have the company pay the school directly, I would have had a tough time with my cash flow for a few years but I might have paid off my remaining student loan much quicker.

As I mentioned, this state of being debt-free is likely only temporary. I do not have a mortgage. I’ve been a renter as long as I’ve been living on my own, and I expect I will continue to rent until I make some decisions about where to live in a more permanent state of being. I expect that I will, at some point, own a house and require financing. Perhaps the feeling of euphoria and excitement that seems to be associated with debt elimination will come once I’ve acquired and conquered a mortgage.

Those who have been following Consumerism Commentary may remember that I also had a car loan. In 2004, I purchased a new Honda Civic — the price differential between “new” and “acceptably used” was negligible — and opted to finance most of the purchase. A loan from family helped me stay away from high interest rates and fees. I paid this loan off within three years.

According to the government, for the first time ever, American household debt has decreased since the same figure was measured three months ago. Don’t get too excited. Americans aren’t suddenly becoming more financially secure. Over the past few months, credit has been harder to come by. Thanks to the state of the economy, car loans, mortgages, and other types of financing for large purchases have been less available. But perhaps there are more people like me who used this year’s declining benefit of savings account interest as an opportunity to pay off debt.

Photo credit: mudpig

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