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This past weekend, a sculpture by Alberto Giacometti broke the previous record for most expensive piece of art sold at auction. An anonymous bidder purchased “L’Homme Qui Marche I” for $104.3 million, up to five times more than the expected price. This may be a good sign for the art world in need of a recovery from a bubble and crash. Only a few months ago, Lehman Brothers was selling off art within the company’s possession at any price possible in order to pay back their creditors.

The winner of the auction is remaining anonymous, and that’s probably a good idea. Many owners of high-priced art are investment banks. Consumers are still angry about taxpayer money used for bailouts and executive bonuses, so from a public relations perspective, no one would want to be seen spending this much money on one piece of art. In addition, storage, security, and insurance for this valuable sculpture is sure to be a significant expense, as well.

However, well-chosen art could provide to be an excellent investment. There are drawbacks. With the expenses mentioned, art as an investment is cash flow negative. Unless you are able to lend the works to a gallery, they will not produce income for the owner. The only chance to come out ahead is to sell the art for a higher price than the purchase price, and this is a very risky proposition. Art prices fluctuate and tastes change.

While small-time investors may be used to transaction fees no larger than $10 a trade, the art market isn’t as modest. Not only does the selling price need to be higher, but exorbitant transaction fees must be factored in. Even if you sell a work of art for 20% more than you paid for it, everyone involved in the sale, from the auction house to the banks that facilitate the purchase will find a way to eat into your profit margin.

From one perspective, $104.3 million seems to be a large amount to spend on a work of art when people are suffering throughout the world. The money could save lives. But art is an essential component of culture, and if this purchase broadens awareness and appreciation, the world may be better off.

Do you feel a work of art is a good choice for spending $104.3 million right now?

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Creating a Risk-Free Retirement Plan

by Pop on February 1, 2010. Filed under Investing.

Or, how to invest like a grandmother.

This is a guest article by Pop. Pop writes about the intersection of behavior, economics, and personal finance at Pop Economics. He writes about investing for a living and turns famous economics figures into pop art for fun.

I’m young, as I bet a whole bunch of you are. And because I’m really just a few years into my career, I have a whole host of paths I could take to get me to retirement. The conventional path — which you see in personal finance magazines, target-date retirement funds, and financial adviser crib notes — says you can save a small portion of your income, say 10%, invest most of it in stocks, and be set for your aged 65 retirement.

That’s all well and good. But most of it’s based on a simulation of stock and bond returns. Go to any financial planner or retirement calculator and they’re likely to run a Monte Carlo simulation to show you the probability that their investment plan will get you to your target. You stick in your savings rate, income, asset allocation, etc. and the program spits back a conclusion that reads something like: “With this plan, you have a 93% chance of meeting your goals.”

BernankeLet’s just pretend the numbers are accurate. You might walk away from that exercise feeling pretty good about the plan. But what if we turn the language around. What if the program told you, “You have a 7% chance of not being able to retire?” Doesn’t feel so great now, does it? In the not-so-distant past, my company announced it would lay off 700 employees of its 10,000-strong workforce. Somehow it didn’t comfort me that I had a 93% chance of keeping my job.

And, if nothing else, this was the kick in the head that I got from the financial crisis. A 7% chance or 5% chance or 3% chance of missing my retirement goal seems small, unless it’s me who ends up on the unlikely side of that statistic. And that’s what a lot of baby boomers who retired in 2007 or plan to retire soon are realizing now: They’re part of the unlucky 7%.

Well, there is another way. And it’s not one of the newfangled investment products that financial planners are hawking to increase your diversification. No, it’s really a throwback. Back to a time when we didn’t rely on out-sized returns to make retirement possible. In fact, it wouldn’t be so inaccurate to call it “The Grandmother Plan.”

You see, my grandmother was a child of the Great Depression. She saw firsthand how the stock market can both create great wealth and destroy it, seemingly at random. So if you reached a point where you didn’t trust the stock market anymore to grow your money, what did you do? You stuck it all (or nearly all) in Treasury bonds. They’d give you a return three or four percentage points below that of stocks, most of the time, but you never had to worry about losing money.

Today, the ultimate safe investment isn’t Treasury bonds, but their more modern cousin, Treasury Inflation Protected Securities (TIPS). Like Treasuries, these are backed by the federal government. So they’re not going to default. But in addition, their principal is adjusted yearly for inflation. Of course, you could argue that the government underestimates inflation — and this is true. But it gets closer to preserving and slowly growing your money than any other product I’ve seen.

A few economists have argued that retail investors should put all their money in TIPS. You might find that unappetizing. I do too. But instead, some other economists have advocated a middle road. Here’s how it works.

1. Decide what minimum standard of living would be acceptable.

Actually I think the kind of people who read this blog are going to have the easiest time accomplishing this, because you’re already motivated and have self discipline. The problem with most retirement calculators is that they leave out an important element: Humans’ ability to adapt. If we’re running low on money, we spend less. We don’t just carry on until we’re bankrupt. (OK, some people do, but this is a personal finance blog after all.)

To that end, decide right now what your minimum acceptable standard of living would be in retirement. How much could you live on? Would you be willing to, say, move from New York to Wisconsin if it meant you only had to replace 60% of your income instead of 80%? Would you be willing to give up the 4-bedroom house with a yard for a cheaper and lower maintenance condo?

Remember we’re talking worst-case scenario here. This isn’t your “dream retirement.” This is what you don’t want to put at risk. I ran the numbers myself, and I think I’d be willing to live on 70% of what I’m making now (adjusted for inflation, of course). It would certainly involve moving to a lower-cost city — I live in New York City — and it would involve cutting down from two international vacations per year to one. I’d have to eat out less often, and might have to cut out cable TV. Not the perfect life, but I wouldn’t be eating cat food either.

2. Save and invest so that minimum living standard is guaranteed.

Now that you’ve decided what minimum retirement you don’t want to risk, invest so you don’t risk it. Save everything you need to virtually guarantee that retirement by putting it in TIPS. This means that in retirement calculators, when they ask for an estimated, inflation-adjusted return, you’re going to want to put in “2%” instead of the more typical 6% or 8% if you were investing in stocks.

If you want to be especially conservative, don’t include Social Security benefits. I personally don’t think they’ll ever disappear completely, but will kick in at a later age and give you a smaller benefit. And if you’re young, remember that your income is likely to grow faster than inflation as you get promotions and raises. So your income before retirement might be more like $100,000 in today’s dollars if you income at age 30 is $50,000.

What are you likely to conclude? To guarantee your minimum retirement, you’ll probably have to save at least 20% of your income if you’re in your 20s or early 30s, but more like 30% to 40% of your income if you’re in your 40s or 50s. Of course, older folks can simply work for a few extra years beyond retirement age to close that gap a little. But I bet all but people getting started early are going to decide it’s too difficult to save enough.

Calculating exactly what you need to save is pretty difficult. Try using a retirement calculator that lets you adjust your expected return, or go to a financial planner for a 5-hour sit-down, letting him or her know what you’re trying to do. I found a good resource to be the T. Rowe Price retirement income calculator. If you put your desired allocation as 100% short-term, your portfolio earns about 4.75%. With inflation averaging about 3%, it’s a rough approximate of what you’d earn over a long period of time in TIPS. But again, ideally after doing the back-of-the-envelope calculation, you’d find a financial planner to get you started.

Another complicating factor is where to put the money. Many 401k plans don’t yet allow you to invest in TIPS bonds or funds. So you’ll have to find the closest alternative available to you or invest in TIPS outside your 401k. You’ll want to put them in an IRA, if possible, so you’re not taxed each time the principal adjusts for inflation.

I can hear jaws hitting the floor right now. Yeah, that’s a lot of money to save. Probably a lot more than you’re saving. But you know what? That’s the price of safety.

3. Take a risk on the rest.

If you’re able to save more, what do you do with the remainder? Take a risk. Put it in stocks or non-Treasury bonds. Do the things that personal finance mags suggest you do. If you end up approaching the 10% historical average return that you’ve heard so much about, great! If not, no big deal. Because you’ve already sewn up the retirement you need.

Some investors, like Nassim Nicholas Taleb, take this method to extremes. After putting what you need in Treasury bonds, he recommends you really roll the dice, say, on biotech stocks or a clean energy start-up. If you hit oil, the argument goes, you’ll get rich even though you only devoted a small amount of your portfolio to it. If you don’t, no big deal — you’ve locked up what you need anyway.

And all this ends up being a really complicated way of saying this: There’s more than one path to retirement. You might decide you’d rather take the more traditional path. But just keep in mind that it sucks to be in the unlucky 7%.

Editor’s note: The original version of this article cited Boston University’s Zvi Bodie as a proponent of investing entirely in TIPS. Bodie doesn’t not agree with this characterization and has written to Consumerism Commentary explaining his position, which is identical to the central thesis of the article written by Pop. You can read Bodie’s comment below.

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Earlier this month, I stopped my automatic monthly investment of $1,000 in the stock market through Vanguard’s Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSMX), and it’s possible that this will prove to be a good decision. Shawn Tully from Fortune Magazine identifies four current asset bubbles that all investors should heed, and one of these bubbles is the stock market.

I began my monthly dip into the market with an investment in stocks through my SEP IRA last year around the end of March, so I benefited from one of the lowest recent points to get in the market. I followed that with the automatic monthly investment in my non-retirement account. Through 2009, I was dollar-cost-averaging as the stock market and the price of VTSMX increased.

According to Shawn Tully, you should avoid investing in the stock market, Treasuries, gold, and oil. These investments have all climbed too high recently although the recession is not too far in the past. For stocks, Tully looks at the market’s overall price to earnings ratio, which is historically high right now. This means that companies’ earnings are not high enough to justify the price of shares.

Here is the author’s warning about gold:

Prices are so high all over the world that people who once treasured their gold jewelry are now rushing to sell it. Swiss refiners are offering irresistible prices for bracelets and brooches, “cash-for-gold” stores are in Chicago malls, and suburbanites are hosting Tupperware-style parties where neighbors show up to hock their gold teeth.

When this happened in the early 1980s with silver, prices plummeted from $50 to $15 in less than a year. Look for gold to end up below $500 an ounce within two years.

Are you investing in the stock market or in gold right now?

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Another day, another recall. Normally, automobile recalls are not much of a problem. A recall usually involves bringing your car to a dealership, subjecting yourself up to some sales pitches, getting your car fixed, and driving home. Toyota’s recent string of recalls is more complicated because some of the problems do not have solutions yet.

If you own one of the many Toyota cars affected by one of the company’s recalls, you probably have already received a letter.

Here is what has happened so far:

  • November 2, 2009. Toyota/Lexus recalls recent models of the Camry, Avalon, Prius, Tacoma, Tundra, ES350, IS250 and IS350 due to a tendency for the floor mats to obstruct the accelerator pedal. This was a voluntary recall whose solution was simply to remove the driver’s side floor mat. Later that month, Toyota announced a solution to the problem that will require a visit to the dealer.
  • November 24, 2009. Toyota recalls 2000-2003 models of the Tundra due to the possibility of excessive corrosion on the frame rear cross-member caused by road salt.
  • January 21, 2010. Toyota issues a voluntary safety recall for recent models of the RAV4, Corolla, Matrix, Avalon, Camry, Highlander, Tundra, and Sequoia. This recall is to remedy another problem with the accelerator. In these cars, there may be a tendency for the accelerator pedal to stick, and this is not related to the floor mat problem. On Tuesday, January 26, after months of working with federal safety officials, Toyota decided to stop selling these cars until the problem has been fixed.
  • January 27, 2010. Last night, Toyota added to its initial recall pertaining to floor mats obstructing accelerator pedals. Added to the initial list are recent Highlanders, Corollas, Venzas, Matrixes and Pontiac Vibes. The Vibe shares design and construction with the Toyota Matrix.

According to the New York Times, sudden, uncontrolled acceleration in Toyota vehicles has caused 275 crashes and 18 deaths. Researchers have identified 2,274 incidents of sudden acceleration.

Over the past few months, Toyota has recalled 7.6 million cars. General Motors was quick to respond with an incentive for Toyota owners who want to get rid of their cars in favor of one of the American automaker’s vehicles.

Toyota has a strong reputation or being reliable, but these recent events inspire doubt. Here in the United States, shares of Toyota Motor Corp. (TM) have fallen 13% since January 19. If you believe that Toyota will recover, and if you have money you don’t mind losing while gambling in the stock market, it might be a good time to buy Toyota’s stock. I expect Toyota will recover and after some time, their reputation will remain mostly unharmed.

Update: I decided that if I should talk about buying TM, and if I think it’s a good idea for the long term, I should live up to my decision. I bought 10 shares of Toyota Motor Corp.’s ADR today.

Do you see the latest string of crises as an opportunity for investors?

Photo credit: Collin Allen
Dealers Swamped by Worried Toyota Drivers, Associated Press, January 28, 2010

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Between a Rock and a Hard Debt

by Smithee on January 19, 2010. Filed under Investing.

Well, I didn’t want to have to make this decision, and I know that all of you smart people will think I’m making a mistake, but I’ve decided for the time being to stop making pre-tax investments into the 401(k)-like thing that my company operates.

Over the last year I’ve directed $1,879.18 out of my paycheck into that IRA, and as of yesterday the account was worth $2,181.61, which is an increase of $302.43. That’s an overall return of just over 16%, which is well outperforming the Dow Jones and the S&P 500.

Unfortunately, I’ve still got this credit card debt hovering between $5,000 and $6,000, and the finance charges are easily outstripping any benefit from investing in the IRA. I feel like I’ve made a terrible mistake by taking the advice of the CPA I consulted, and that I could be feeling a lot better about my future right now had I not started investing.

This decision was made easier for me when I remembered that the main benefit of contributing to the IRA was that my employer was also contributing free money in my name, and that they stopped last year around the same time all of our salaries got a 10% reduction. What’s more, this particular investment comes with a front-loaded 5.75% transaction fee. When my employer was contributing, this fee was annoying but not enough of a deterrent. Now, if I felt like I should be contributing any pre-tax money, I could find a better option just about anywhere that didn’t charge me that much.

So, I’ve stopped. And now I can pay off my credit card at a rate of $1,000 per pay period instead of $900. Of course, I’m still using this card for daily purchases, so it won’t be paid off in three months, but I have managed to start making lunch instead of buying it every day. If it weren’t for the ever-present vet appointments, car maintenance ($518 for new tires), out-of-the-blue-surprise dermatologist bills ($178 for stuff I thought was already paid for a year ago, because we have the best health insurance in the world), and of course the dentist (nearly $800 so far), I’m sure that debt would seem a lot more manageable.

I’ll probably have to stop making dentist appointments, too.

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With new technology becoming available to consumers every day, like 3-D high-definition televisions, it certainly feels like I’m living in the future. How did we all survive without such marvels as wireless internet, video games that react to movement, GPS, text messaging, and video on demand? In ten years, we could as easily be wondering how we functioned in the early twenty-first century without flying cars, time machines, and cellular phone brain implants.

While it may feel like we’re living in the future, we’re not. Although it’s very tempting to focus purely on what is needed right now, this philosophy could set anyone up for financial failure. At the beginning of a career, it’s not difficult to fall into this trap. Starting salaries are not always large, and these days people are often well aware of how their salaries compare with those of their colleagues. This contributes to the feeling that when you’re struggling to afford the basic necessities, saving for later is impossible.

When I graduated from college, I worked at a job that was fulfilling in many ways other than financially. I wasn’t paid enough to be able to eat, afford a normal rent, and commute to work. Saving for the future didn’t even enter my mind. Even when the small non-profit organization established a 403(b), I couldn’t conceive how I could send any portion of my salary to anything other than the “present me.”

After some time I realized I wasn’t thriving financially and I educated myself about money. By the time I started my next job, I knew I had to think about and plan for the “future me,” even if it meant temporarily making some sacrifices.

Why save for the future?

A few weeks ago, Outlaw made an interesting argument about why it’s better to focus on the present and ignoring the future. I don’t agree, but there are some valid points:

  • You should only plan for what is likely. If your genetics indicate you will not live a long life and if you have no purpose for accumulating money other than using it for yourself, then by all means, live every day like it is your last and spend away.
  • The purpose of money is for it to be used, not to be sitting in a bank account. This is why I believe statements like, “My goal is to have a net worth of ten million dollars,” are not real goals; they don’t explain anything.

The basics for you and your family are not fully covered until you think about future needs. Being able to enjoy what life has to offer in the present is a luxury. In a perfect world, we could do both — invest for the future and use money to better ourselves today.

How to invest for the future

I often hear that it’s better to just get started investing as early as possible, to take advantage of the power of compounding returns, and that’s better to just do something rather than taking the time to do something right. Voltaire wrote, “Le mieux est l’ennemi du bien,” and this is often interpreted to mean that obsession over doing something the best way prevents any action at all. This is further extrapolated to rationalize not performing due diligence before making an investment decision. In other words those who follow this philosophy might say it’s better to get into the stock market now in the easiest and quickest manner and worry about specific investments later.

There’s some truth to that, and that’s why many companies automatically enroll new employees is 401(k) retirement plans. But the default investments may not be ideal. So here is what you need to do now to save for your retirement or the future in general.

Invest in your 401(k) but choose the best options. Many 401(k) plans let you choose a risk profile, like “aggressive” or “conservative,” and they do the rest. If you are aiming for bien rather than mieux this is a good start. If your 401(k) offers a low-cost broad index fund, this may be a better investments than the underlying funds in an automatic portfolio based on a risk profile. With a 401(k) plan, your income is reduced by the amount you invest, but you will pay income tax when you eventually withdraw your money during retirement.

Many companies that offer 401(k) plans also increase the benefit by matching your contributions up to a certain percentage. This is “free” money so you should try to make the most of that benefit. Nothing is truly “free.” Many times you have to work at a company for a certain amount of time before your employer matching contribution becomes truly yours. Corporations need to use delayed rewards like these to help retain good employees who might be talented enough to find more creative ways to earn income.

Maximize your Roth IRA investment. It’s hard to know what income tax rates will be in the future, but with the way the economy is now, it’s not unreasonable to expect tax rates will be higher by the time you retire. Roth IRAs are optimized for that assumption compared to pre-tax 401(k) plans; you pay your income taxes now at what might be lower rates than those later.

While a company creates your 401(k) choices, you are free to invest in just about anything for your IRA. My IRAs are mostly held at Vanguard where I can choose from a selection of low-cost index funds.

Maximize your 401(k) contribution. After you’re investing the full amount to your Roth IRA you can turn around and look back at your 401(k) contribution. You can increase the amount you defer to your retirement plan up to the contribution maximum mandated by the IRS or your employer.

These are only some suggestions. Not everyone has access to 401(k) plans or 403(b) plans. There are other investment options like SIMPLE IRAs, traditional IRAs, and non-retirement accounts that can be used efficiently to prepare for the future.

The future is not just retirement

There is more to the future than quitting your job and moving to an “active adult community.” Think about what you might want five, ten, or twenty years from now. If a house is in your future, you should save for a large enough down payment. But if you plan on making the purchase within ten years, you may want to invest outside of the stock market as you never know when the next market crash will arrive. Bad timing could wipe out your savings.

Don’t forget to think about people other than yourself, particularly those in your family who rely at least partly on your income. For example, you may want to invest for future education for your children.

If you think you might need the cash for a goal upcoming within a year or so, high-yield savings accounts, high-yield alternatives, or even laddered certificates of deposit (CDs) provide the liquidity you need.

If your money is limited, the more aggressive you need to be. For example, Suze Orman suggests investing for the long term in stocks. That’s good advice for most of her audience. You’ll find that she invests only 4 percent ($1 million) of her own portfolio in stocks and most of the rest in bonds. Even a modest return on those bonds provides her $1 million in annual income. With a net worth like that, Suze Orman can afford to be more conservative.

Find the right balance

All this planning for the future is a smart way to reduce the possibility of struggling later in exchange for living like tomorrow will never come. Life is short. The time we have with our family and friends is limited. Before you know it, life has passed you by. There has to be an optimal balance between saving money for the future and using money now to make the most our of life.

As I mentioned above, being able to do both or to find balance is a luxury. Many people throughout this world struggle to afford a minimum amount of food every day. They are not thinking about retirement nor are they thinking about their next family vacation. Most readers of Consumerism Commentary are exceedingly lucky to have been born in a prosperous time in an advantageous location. Those of us earning money have the ability to invest for the future. There is no reason for us to sacrifice our future to live for today or to sacrifice an enjoyable life now for the sake of our future as long as we take a sensible approach to balance.

This article is part of a series called Start the Decade Off Right on Consumerism Commentary. Previously: Pay off debt, open a high-yield savings account.

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401(k) Contribution Limits For 2010

by Flexo on January 6, 2010. Filed under Investing.

In 2010, the basic maximum for 401(k) contributions is $16,500. Employees 50 and older can add an additional $5,500. These limits take your pre-tax, after-tax, and Roth 401(k) contributions into consideration, so the sum of all your 401(k) contributions in 2010 cannot exceed the limit for your age group. This limit is the same as last year’s amount. This comes as a pleasant surprise because there has been some discussion about the IRS actually reducing the maximums for 2010.

401(k) contributions may be further limited by your employer. Mine limits 401(k) contributions to 50% of an employee’s salary.

I contributed the full amount of $16,500 to my 401(k) in 2009. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize I had one extra paycheck in 2009, a total of twenty-seven rather than twenty-six. This resulted in my employer diverting no portion of my final paycheck towards my 401(k) and thus I missed out on a small portion of employer matching contribution. Employer matching contributions generally end when your contributions are maxed out.

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Other than the removal of the income limitation for Roth IRA conversions this year, 2010 is not much different than 2009 in terms of IRA maximums. Like 2009, the maximum you may contribute to your Traditional and Roth IRAs combined is $5,000. If you reach age 50 this year, you may contribute an extra $1,000 for a total of $6,000. This maximum applies to the combined contributions between your Traditional and Roth IRAs.

The income limitations for contributing to a Roth IRA have changed slightly this year for taxpayers who are married and file jointly. For these filers, if the modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) on the tax return is above $167,000, the Roth IRA maximum begins to reduce to zero, phasing out completely with a MAGI of $177,000. Those amounts have increased by $1,000 since 2009. For taxpayers who file as single, the phase-out begins at a MAGI of $105,000 and the benefit is fully eliminated with a MAGI of $120,000.

These income limitations do not apply for conversions from Traditional IRAs to Roth IRAs.

If you haven’t contributed the full amount to your 2009 IRA, there is still time to do so. You have until your tax filing deadline to complete the contribution. For the past few years, I’ve waited until I file my taxes to contribute to my IRA. For us, the 2009 contribution limits apply.

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