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If President Obama is able to enact the new plan for banks called “The Volcker Rule,” the era of banks too big to fail should be over. Obama has been speaking with former head of the Federal Reserve, Paul Volcker, who is advising the President to adopt a plan different than those suggested by Treasury Secretary Timothy Geithner.

Although the Volcker Rule has parallels with the defunct Glass-Steagall Act that created a wall between commercial banks and investment banking firms, it doesn’t go that far. The repeal of the Glass-Steagall Act allowed banks and investment banks to merge, like J. P. Morgan & Co. and Chase Manhattan Bank in 2000. If the Glass-Steagall Act were fully brought back JPMorgan Chase would be required to separate its businesses again.

Under the Volcker Rule, banks would still be allowed to offer investment services to customers, but they wouldn’t be permitted to invest customers’ FDIC insured deposits for the company’s financial benefit. This plan would effectively reduce the risk that banks assume. The administration also intends to limit mergers and acquisitions in the financial industry, but the details have not been determined yet.

Is the Volcker Rule a good move? What can the government do right now to protect consumers and Is regulation necessary?

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Help a Reader Who Inherited $10,000

by Flexo on January 21, 2010. Filed under Personal Finance.

Does anyone have advice for Sibyl? She commented on an article reviewing Jane Bryant Quinn’s latest book with a question pertaining to her own finances. Sibyl was kind enough to include many details about her family’s finances.

I have some suggestions, but this is always a good opportunity to have readers provide theirs as well.

Here is her story:

I just inherited $10,000. What do I do with it so that it earns rather than loses value? I currently have it in a checking account earning 3.25%.

I’m female, age 61, and married. Our income comes from my husband’s retirement ($1,700 a month), two annuities ($1,040 per month and $2,000 per year), and a part-time job ($20,000 per year). I do not work outside the home.

We can collect Social Security in January 2011 as we will both be 62 in October. My husband expects about $1,700 a month from Social Security and I expect about $700 a month. He hopes to retire after we receive Social Security. Is this a good idea or should he keep working?

We have no expenses except the household (our cars and house is house are paid for). Our current credit card debt totals $3,000 at 0% and we have about $8,000 in savings earning 3.48%.

After my mother’s estate is settled in January 2012, I may receive as much as $100,000. Should I ask again at that time?

My opinions: It sounds like Sibyl is in a solid financial situation. Her main question is what to do with the $10,000 inheritance. First, a 3.25% is a great interest rate for a checking account right now. At this time, cash flow doesn’t seem to be a problem, although I’m confused about the $1,700 a month they are drawing from his retirement right now. Debt is not a problem either. Since cash flow is covered, I think Sibyl should consider investing the $10,000 in a mix of tax-advantaged bonds and stocks with a time horizon of twenty years or so.

Sibyl’s next question is whether her husband should retire or keep working. Although she has provided her annuity income, but I’m not sure about the terms of the annuities. Annuities have a tendency to be too expensive for the benefits they provide, but they can offer some stability in income along with growth. The biggest danger with annuities would be the penalties you have to pay in order to access your money if needed.

If Sibyl’s plans for retirement are modest, they should be in a good position for her husband to stop working when he would like to do so.

An additional inheritance of $100,000 will be a nice shot in the arm. Sibyl didn’t mention children, so I’m not sure if she has pans to pass her estate down to another generation, give all her funds away to organizations, or spend all that is left on her “bucket list.” $100,000 will help boost any of these goals.

Keep in mind I’m not a financial adviser. These are only my opinions and I can’t be held liable for the results of any actions made based on information posted on Consumerism Commentary.

What advice would you give Sibyl and her husband?

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The 5 Worst Forms of Debt

by Flexo on January 21, 2010. Filed under Debt Reduction.

I suppose you could live your entire life without going into debt, though modern middle class society in the United States seems to be designed to require at least some debt. Even if young adults can complete their education without taking on student loan debt, just about all new homeowners need a mortgage in order to afford a house. In some cases, debt is just a cost of middle class living.

Some debt products should just be avoided, however.

1. Payday loans. To qualify for a payday loan, you would need to prove a history of income. The will would provide you a short-term loan, with the balance and fee due within weeks. Those fees could be $15 to $30 for every $100 borrowed, which on a two-week loan could be considered a 390% interest rate. If you aren’t able to pay off the loan when it is due, you can renew it for an additional fee.

Most people who take out payday loans fall into a cycle of debt, renewing their loans or going back to the lender often. It’s rare that someone in a short-term financial fix borrows money at a high rate for a few weeks and pays the loan off in full.

2. Refund anticipation loans. These were marketed heavily a few years ago, and now that we’re heading into tax season it’s likely we’ll see more ads. Refund anticipation loans are often offered by the same company you might use to help file your taxes. If your income tax return forms show that the government owes you money, for a fee, these companies will be willing to offer you your anticipated cash now.

You can adjust your tax withholding at your job to make sure you’re not due a large refund when you file your taxes. There are few good reasons to keep paying the government more than you need to every week or two when you receive your paycheck. The “forced savings” rationalization is not a good reason.

3. Gambling. For the sake of your kneecaps, you don’t want to find yourself in debt to a bookie. Movie drama aside, gambling is always a losing endeavor in the long run. It can be an addiction, so seek help if gambling is controlling your life. One problem is sunk costs. Once you start losing, you want to make up for your losses, taking larger risks.

If you’re a stock trader relying on the margin for making purchases, you might as well be gambling.

4. Rent to own. If you have young children in school beginning to learn to play a musical instrument, you are likely encouraged to rent the instrument from the store. The rental programs are generally designed to either buy the instrument after some time or return the instrument to the store when the student loses interest. This is the best rent to own scenario.

Once you start renting electronics and furniture, you will generally get a bad deal. It’s likely you’ll pay much more than the cost of the product by renting, and you will likely be charged a high rate of interest.

5. Debt used to finance a depreciating asset. One rule of thumb dictates that debt should only be used to pay for an asset that increases in price. For that to make sense, the price of the asset should increase at a rate higher than the rate of interest on the debt. The only problem is that you can’t consistently predict whether the price of an asset will increase.

Cars, unless they are collectible items, would not qualify under this rule. I would argue that if you need a car to earn money, the benefits of its use might outweigh the cost of the loan. And even a reliable used car could cost more than someone on the first day of his first job might be able to afford.

A few years ago, I knew many people who thought that real estate prices could never go down, conveniently excusing the fact they had no equity in their house. Banks were eager to let them buy their houses with hardly any down payment. If they were forced sell after their house values dropped 20%, they would be in financial distress. And worse, if they were no longer able to afford their mortgage, they might have to foreclose.

What other forms of debt should people avoid?

Take the Debtbuster Challenge to win some goodies from LendingClub. If you do have high-interest debt, consider consolidating your debt with LendingClub or another peer-to-peer lender. Your rates might be better than what you would find from a bank. If you list your loan after clicking here but before the end of January, the company will send you a LendingClub tee-shirt or back pack.

Also, check out the other blogs participating in the Debtbuster Challenge: Debt Free Adventure, DebtKid, Get Out of Debt, and The Digerati Life.

Photo credit: Dan4th

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This article is presented by Kelly Whalen, Consumerism Commentary staff writer.

Like many Americans my family has debt. We are working diligently to pay off our debt. We’ve slashed expenses, given up hobbies, and even become a one car family.

We have a plan. A timeline. We’re constantly working on creative ways to shave some money off our monthly expenses, to earn more by selling stuff we don’t need, or by taking on side work.

There are days, and sometimes weeks, when fighting this fight against debt is incredibly difficult. The timeline to being debt-free seems like it will last forever. I worry about a devastating financial emergency, and sock money away like crazy. Then I start to worry about cutting back too much, and we find some frugal way to have fun as a family.

Then there are days like today where I was adding up numbers in my head all day, and trying to figure out how I could make it all work. Knowing that the only way to make it work was to continue to work hard, and save, and pay down debt.

Here’s what we are doing right:

  • Automatically investing in my husband’s 401k: We get the full match. No use in throwing free money away.
  • Automatically saving for our emergency fund: It started tiny, with only 1% of our income from each paycheck, but I bump it up as we find expenses to cut.
  • Snowballing debt: We have a spreadsheet that orders all out debts from A-mortgage.
  • Upping the ante: We put 25% of our after tax (after 401k, after savings) income to our debt.
  • Expense Checkups: Every month or so I go through all our expenses and spending to see if there is anything we can cut. I usually find somewhere we can reduce something, even if it’s only $5/month, that’s an extra $60/year which gets us that much closer to our goal.
  • Holding Periods for Purchases: While we spend very little on anything other than food (from the grocery store-no eating out!), when we do need something or want something we use a “hold” period. Just like a store, we will hold that purchase for a day or two, and then decide.

I try to remind myself on the days when I am struggling emotionally that we are doing so much right. One of the most rewarding things is to see our debt decrease every month. We have a debt chart that hangs on the wall, and it’s so satisfying to mark off another block of that chart.

I’m sure we have area for improvement, what other methods would you suggest to pay off our debt faster? What worked for you to get out of debt, or keep yourself from getting in debt?

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Earlier today the House of Representatives passed a bill to encourage more charitable contributions for recovery in Haiti. Once this bill passes the Senate and is signed into law by the President, and I expect it won’t be long until this law is official, those of us who have donated or will donate cash before the end of February will be able to count those donations as 2009 expenses. If you itemize when you file your taxes, you can include these donations.

January 22 update: It’s official: The Senate passed the bill yesterday and the President signed it into law today.

You will also have the option of claiming the deduction with your 2010 taxes if you’d like to wait a year.

Although the bill indicates “cash” donations are the only type that are eligible, checks and credit cards, and even donations sent via text message, are considered cash. If you sent care packages through the mail addressed only to Port-au-Prince, not only is the value of your donation not tax-deductible, it most likely didn’t reach anyone. Here are my choices for tax-deductible contributions to relief efforts in Haiti including Médecins Sans Frontières, The World Food Programme, and due to its massive popularity, the American Red Cross.

If you want to deduct donations given via text message, send an itemized copy of your phone bill to the IRS when you file. Only donations to domestic non-profit organizations are deductible, but many foreign international organizations have qualifying domestic subsidiaries. Here is more information about tax-deductible contributions to relief for Haitian earthquake victims.

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In February, Intuit will release a long-awaited update to the Mac desktop version of Quicken. The new software has been renamed again. When it appears on shelves with the retail price of $69.99, it will be labeled “Quicken Essentials for Mac.” You can pre-order Quicken Essentials for Mac now and receive $10 off the full price.

Before you buy the software, understand its limitations when compared with the various Windows-based versions of the desktop software. While Quicken Essentials for Mac will track the value of your investments, it does not handle the level of detail that you find in other versions of the software, including the previous version of their Apple-based software, Quicken Mac 2007. If you want to track daily investment activity including transactions, Quicken Essentials for Mac will disappoint.

Quicken Essentials for Mac will not work directly with Intuit’s TurboTax so you cannot use your data in Quicken to speed up tax filing. Read Quicken’s product information page for more features and limitations.

I’m not a Mac user, but I understand that Intel-based Macs can often run Windows programs. My preference would be to run a Windows desktop version of Quicken, such as Quicken Home & Business 2010. Intuit is currently offering 50% off other Quicken products. I use Quicken Home & Business on my Windows-based computer almost every day.

Here are the current sale prices. Note: some readers have reported the 50% discount seems to be unavailable currently.

Quicken 2010 Home & BusinessBuy CD-ROMDownload$99.99$49.99
Quicken 2010 PremierBuy CD-ROMDownload$89.99$44.99
Quicken 2010 DeluxeBuy CD-ROMDownload$59.99$29.99
Quicken Essentials for Mac 2010Buy CD-ROMDownload$69.99$59.99
Quicken Medical Expense ManagerBuy CD-ROMDownload$69.99
Quicken Home Inventory ManagerBuy CD-ROMDownload$29.99
Quicken Rental Property Manager 2010Buy CD-ROMDownload$149.99$74.99
Quicken Online Edition  Free

These sale prices are good until January 23, 2010. If you are asked for an offer code, use 6301262157 to activate all discounts other than the Quicken Essentials for Mac.

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Because I check my credit card activity online almost every day to ensure nothing unexpected has been charged to me, it’s rare that I examine my paper statements. I usually look through the envelopes to make sure there aren’t any notices identifying any significant changes in the user agreement, such as a requirement to sign my first-born child over to the credit card company if I accidentally pay my bill late some day. In reality, however, I more often stick the unopened envelopes into a folder.

I was in for a surprise. This past weekend, I opened the latest statement from Citibank. They’ve redesigned the statement, probably to comply with the Credit CARD Act of 2009, and 29.99% caught my eye immediately. This usurious rate is what I would need to begin paying if Citi were not to receive my payment by the due date. I looked further into the statement to find the interest rate for standard purchases, and I was surprised to see it was 19.99% APR.

Concerned, I retrieved my other statements. The annual percentage rate on my Bank of America Visa Signature card is a more respectable but still expensive 11.24% while the rate on my American Express Blue Cash for Business card clocks in at 9.24%.

I don’t pay any interest because at this stage, and for as long as I can, I pay my credit card balance in full every month. So the interest rate doesn’t affect me. I won’t be calling Citi in anger, at least not for this reason. But that doesn’t mean I’m not contributing to the growth of the credit card industry. Even if I’m not paying any fees to use my credit card — in fact, I’m earning cash-back rewards — every time I purchase something I contribute to an overall increase in prices.

Merchants pay an interchange fee to process credit card and debit card transactions, and that fee varies depending on the type of card. To put this idea into real numbers, I entered my credit card information (just the first six digits of each card, nothing personally identifiable) into the True Cost of Credit calculator.

Here were my results. The table below contains several different types of purchases, and for each purchase, the fee the merchant would owe for credit card processing. The numbers aren’t very surprising.

Citi Dividend
World MasterCard
BoA Visa
Signature
AmEx Blue Cash
for Business
Convenience Store
Pack of Gum ($1.50)
$0.28$0.37$0.30
Sandwhich Shop
Sandwich ($7.00)
$0.36$0.36$0.45
Pizza Restaurant
Pizza Delivery ($25.00)
$0.85$0.84$1.13
Gas Station
Full Tank ($30.00)
$0.71$0.64$1.15
Online Retailer
Books ($50.00)
$1.17$1.14$1.80
Grocery Store
Groceries ($100.00)
$1.56$1.52$3.55
Electric Company
Bill Paid Over Phone ($150.00)
$1.02$1.11$5.26
Online Travel
Flight to California ($300.00)
$6.92$6.76$10.51
Electronics Store
Flat Screen TV ($800.00)
$19.59$19.05$28.01

The credit card industry is receiving anywhere from just underneath 1% to 25% of every transaction that occurs, though that amount may be split between a merchant servicing company, a bank, and the issuer (Visa, MasterCard, or American Express). Yet even with this practically guaranteed income, some credit card companies now want to start charging additional fees to those of us who pay our balances in full every month.

Take your cards for a spin to see how much the credit card industry is earning from you, not including increased spending due to the convenience and psychological appeal of credit cards, even if you don’t pay interest or late fees. It would be interesting to see how a store-branded credit card compares.

Photo credit: rahego

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Between a Rock and a Hard Debt

by Smithee on January 19, 2010. Filed under Investing.

Well, I didn’t want to have to make this decision, and I know that all of you smart people will think I’m making a mistake, but I’ve decided for the time being to stop making pre-tax investments into the 401(k)-like thing that my company operates.

Over the last year I’ve directed $1,879.18 out of my paycheck into that IRA, and as of yesterday the account was worth $2,181.61, which is an increase of $302.43. That’s an overall return of just over 16%, which is well outperforming the Dow Jones and the S&P 500.

Unfortunately, I’ve still got this credit card debt hovering between $5,000 and $6,000, and the finance charges are easily outstripping any benefit from investing in the IRA. I feel like I’ve made a terrible mistake by taking the advice of the CPA I consulted, and that I could be feeling a lot better about my future right now had I not started investing.

This decision was made easier for me when I remembered that the main benefit of contributing to the IRA was that my employer was also contributing free money in my name, and that they stopped last year around the same time all of our salaries got a 10% reduction. What’s more, this particular investment comes with a front-loaded 5.75% transaction fee. When my employer was contributing, this fee was annoying but not enough of a deterrent. Now, if I felt like I should be contributing any pre-tax money, I could find a better option just about anywhere that didn’t charge me that much.

So, I’ve stopped. And now I can pay off my credit card at a rate of $1,000 per pay period instead of $900. Of course, I’m still using this card for daily purchases, so it won’t be paid off in three months, but I have managed to start making lunch instead of buying it every day. If it weren’t for the ever-present vet appointments, car maintenance ($518 for new tires), out-of-the-blue-surprise dermatologist bills ($178 for stuff I thought was already paid for a year ago, because we have the best health insurance in the world), and of course the dentist (nearly $800 so far), I’m sure that debt would seem a lot more manageable.

I’ll probably have to stop making dentist appointments, too.

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