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When I started my first real budget as an adult, the concept was not difficult. I knew I had to track my spending and keep myself from paying more than necessary for expenses I could control in order to fix my financial situation. To reverse the trend of increasing debt every month, I came up with a simple spending plan that suited my needs.

Although the software I was using to manage my personal finance — at that time, a free version of MoneyDance, though I also experimented with GnuCash — categorized my expenses into at least twenty categories. Like I discussed with J.D. Roth from Get Rich Slowly on this past Sunday’s podcast, complicated budgets don’t work as often as simple plans that break spending down into the most core components.

J.D. is a fan of the Balanced Money Formula of budgeting, which is an overall approach of spending 50% of your after-tax expenses on “needs,” 30% on “wants,” and 20% on “savings.” These ratios serve as a goal that one can strive to reach eventually, much like the ideal weight I’m slowly working towards today. But this is not a full budgeting solution. It lays the groundwork, but you need to examine your spending with a little more detail, possibly asking yourself and answering a few questions.

What constitutes a need or want? Some areas of spending can be reason to be needs when they may actually be wants, and what one person wants may be something another family needs. For an entrepreneur whose business relies on access to the internet, this is a need — and a business expense. Is a cell phone a need or a want? What about a smart phone versus a basic phone? Where does charity fit into the picture?

You will likely find that some expenses are partly needs and partly wants. Food is necessary for survival, but is dining out every week the only option for keeping a family alive?

Even once questions like the above are answered, budgeting hasn’t really started. You cannot effectively budget without tracking your finances and knowing what you are spending — and what you could spend in the ideal “low expense” world — within a variety of real, meaningful categories. If I didn’t create a category for my rent expenses when I budgeted, I may not have worked to reduce that expense at a time I really needed to keep my expenses low. If I didn’t focus specifically on the amount of money I spent on food, I wouldn’t have been able to reduce my spending at restaurants, fast-food and otherwise.

There is an essential list of categories that you need to budget for when you’re looking to reduce your expenses due to an inability to save for the future. The key is finding the balance between a plan simple enough to maintain motivation while detailed enough to have a meaningful effect. Looking at just your wants, needs, and savings is good for tracking your budgeting success, but in practical terms, you’ll need to determine specific categories.

When considering budgeting, I like to refer back to Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs and my college Introduction to Psychology course. Physiological needs come first, including food, water and shelter (rent or mortgage, for example), and clothing. Sex is also a physiological need, but budgeting money to spend for sex might be beyond the scope of financial needs.

Once physiological needs are covered in the budget, you need to think about safety needs. Health insurance is probably towards the top of this list, despite the fact that most people don’t budget for insurance — they rely on an employer to just deduct an amount from a paycheck. Insurance is an oft-forgotten line item in a budget, perhaps due to the need for simplification or due to a lack of consideration. Also in the safety category, but arguably a physiological need as well, are the utilities that cost money, like providing power to your home. Humans survived for many thousands of years without electricity, though, so I would not rank this as high as shelter and food. Nevertheless, it’s important for living in modern society.

All other categories and the other levels in Maslow’s hierarchy could be considered wants. Education, gift-giving, dining out, and entertainment should be part of your budget. Love and belonging, esteem, and self-actualization are the higher levels in the pyramid-shaped representation of the hierarchy. The expenses below apply to everyone within the household and do not include taxes. Debt repayment, savings, and investing aren’t on this list, though they play important roles in budgeting. They might be suited to be placed under the 20% “savings” banner, while the below categories focus on the “wants” and “needs” of the Balanced Money Formula.

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After deciding that it’s time to get a handle on your finances, find a way to accurately track the way you handle everything involving money. Before deciding to take action, you may have estimated your income and expenses, but now the details matter. Here is how to get to the details.

Every cent is important at this point. That will change later on; as you grow as a master or mistress of your money, you can ease the pinch on the penny. But in the beginning of this journey, you should record everything. From the $5 check from your grandmother on your birthday to your $75,000 annual performance bonus, and from the $1.99 music download to the $28,150 car, you must write it all down in some form.

There is a purpose to this madness. By tracking every detail of your money, you get a real picture of how much you’re spending. Many people don’t know off the top of the head how much they spend on lunches with coworkers every month or how much they spend on cigarettes or coffee. This process can be very enlightening, and in some cases, it might provide motivation in itself. By tracking your finances accurately, you’ll be poised to make better decisions about where to spend your money.

You don’t need to start with fancy software. Sometimes, low tech can be most effective, especially when starting out. Pads and pencils are portable as well, and they are great tools for keeping track of your cash spending while you’re on the move. The first step is to choose the method that will work best for you.

Desktop software

Intuit Quicken is the king of financial tracking software. Unfortunately, the software is not cheap. Quicken 2009 Deluxe, the most basic version available this year, costs $45 through Consumerism Commentary. You can connect to banks to download your deposits and withdrawals and credit card companies to download your charges and payments. Microsoft Money Plus is another option offering similar features. Both of these programs cost money to use. For those who don’t use Windows-based computers, MoneyDance is a good choice, but this software is not free, either.

If you’re looking for software that is free to use, take a look at GnuCash. GnuCash also has a portable edition which allows you to take your financial data with you and access the program anywhere you can jump on a computer. (Thanks to Dave Stinner who reminded me about Gnu Cash.)

Web software

Quicken Online Edition is now free. Here’s a review of the service. Mint (reviewed here), Geezeo, and Wesabe offer similar features to help you track your money.

While web software offers seamless integration with online access to your banks, it has some limitations. These web applications are not designed to keep track of your cash spending, which may be the most important requirements for accurately tracking your expenses.

Mobile software

Keeping track of the money you spend while you’re out is a challenge, at least for me. It helps to ask for receipts for all transactions so you can collect them and record the amounts at night when you’re home. I’m experimenting with software for mobile phones that allows you to keep track of your spending. SplashMoney works with my BlackBerry as well as iPhones. For Quicken users who enter transactions while away from the computer and sync them to desktop Quicken later, Pocket Quicken may be a good option. This software runs on Palm and Windows Mobile devices.

Paper

For people who prefer old-fashioned methods and have unlimited filing space, paper accounting is an option. Download this ledger paper and print a few pages. Use a separate page for each account, and keep track of your transactions just like you would with software. If you don’t like my ledger paper, try these templates, available for free.

Tips for accurate accounting

  • Collect receipts for all transactions, including the purchases using cash. “Cash” should be an account in your software or on paper. Your starting balance is amount of money you have in your wallet on the day you begin tracking.
  • If possible, keep notes about your expenses while you’re away from your computer or desk. Carry a small pad or use mobile software like those listed above.
  • Every month, or more often if you have online access or automatic transaction downloads, compare what you record with the activity your bank has recorded in their systems. This “reconciliation” ensures you have accurate records for your bank accounts, investments, and credit cards.
  • The web software listed above usually download your bank activity automatically. In some cases, the application will try to categorize your spending based on the vendor name or similar transactions by other users of the software. This “artificial intelligence” will make errors, so review every transaction to categorize the expenses and income properly.
  • ATM withdrawals should be recorded as a transfer between your savings account and your cash account, not an expense. Cash deposits should be transfers as well.

As time goes on and you become more familiar with your finances, you can afford to be less aggressive about recording every cent. I suggest following the above suggestions and keeping track of everything for at least several months to get an informative view of your money.

If you have any additional tips for tracking your money accurately, please share.

Image credit: Refracted Moments

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The giveaway to receive one of two free copies of Quicken Premier 2009 has ended.

As I mentioned earlier today, overdraft fees (also known as NSF fees, insufficient funds fees, etc.) are basically interest paid for the privilege of using a bank’s money for a short period of time, a loan. There are ways to avoid them without yelling at underpaid customer service representatives who don’t have the authority to help you with the issue.

It’s better to prevent overdraft fees than attempt to have them reversed after they appear on the monthly statement. Several of these preventative tips are covered in Overdrawn!, the documentary I mentioned this morning. This advice is generally straightforward, and many people might find these tips to fall under “common sense.”

Before taking action, keep in mind that forgoing overdraft protection adds more responsibility to you, the customer, if you want your checks to clear and your purchases to complete.

Don’t accept overdraft protection. When you apply for a new account with a bank, if you have an option of overdraft protection, decline. If the option isn’t explicit, talk to a bank representative before opening the account. The option may be hidden to the customer. If there is no option, even after speaking with a representative, consider opening your account with a different bank.

If you’ve already opened the account, call customer service and as for the “feature” to be disabled on your account.

Track your deposits and withdrawals. By declining overdraft protection, you leave yourself vulnerable to rejected transactions and bounced checks. Keep in mind that deposits via check may take several days to increase your available balances, and track your spending using software like Quicken, the free Quicken Online, GnuCash, or any tracking system works for you (as long as it does work).

Link your checking account to a savings account. Of course, this option is most effective when your savings account carries no maintenance fee and no fee for transfers for overdrafts. Most importantly, the savings account must be funded to cover the overdraft.

Linking a credit card, as offered by many banks, may not be a good idea. This approach encourages taking on more debt. Your overdraft may be considered a cash advance, which on most credit cards carries a higher interest rate than a purchase. If no other options are available, this may be the best way to avoid the accidental NSF fee.

Buffer your balance. Many people manage to keep their checking account as low as possible, either out of necessity as living paycheck-to-paycheck is a reality for many families, or for maximization of interest. To maximize interest income, the prevailing thought is to leave your checking account as low as possible and transfer any unused cash to a high-yield savings account, so more money is working to earn interest.

If your checking account is subject to overdraft fees and if you believe you are prone to making a mistake with your money management, consider trading some potential interest for a safety net in your checking account. Pad your balance by $100, $500, or $1,000 — whatever works for you and your cash flow — to help ensure you won’t accidentally withdraw more than you have. If it helps, don’t record this padding in your Quicken records. This way you may not be tempted to spend your buffer.

Add your tip and win Quicken Premier 2009

If you have any suggestions for avoiding overdraft fees, please leave them below in the comments. By leaving a comment here, you’ll be entered in a drawing for a free copy of Quicken Premier 2009 (for Windows). I have two copies of the software to send to Consumerism Commentary contributors who live in the United States. To be considered for one of the two copies of Quicken Premier 2009, all you have to do is leave a comment on this post, preferably containing a suggestion for dealing with these particular bank fees. I will close the giveaway on Monday, November 1.

Note: the giveaway is now closed and the winners have been notified. Please feel free to leave comments if you wish.

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Nicholas emailed me with this question.

I’m trying to find some kind of free accounting software for balancing my checkbook, and that sort of thing. I already use Mint.com, but it isn’t much good if I plan on writing a check, or if I want to create a recurring transaction.

I don’t need something to actually connect to my bank account, although it would be convenient to be able to import transactions. I just need to be able to keep track of everything. Right now I’m using Excel, but Excel really isn’t meant to be this kind of tool. I’d appreciate any recommendations you might have. Thanks!

Nicholas is right about Mint, Yodlee MoneyCenter, and other online services. These websites rely on downloading information from banks, and banks don’t know when you write a check unless you have sophisticated business services. For Nicholas’s purposes, these services fall short.

If Intuit Quicken and Microsoft Money Plus are out of the question — and Nicholas’s requirement according to his email is free — then there aren’t many solutions available.

I would suggest GnuCash. GnuCash is free accounting software available for Linux and other flavors of Unix, Mac OS X, and Microsoft Windows. Like Quicken and Money, GnuCash allows you to track your financial accounts, including cash, credit, and investments.

Unlike Quicken and Money, the designers of GnuCash take an approach more true to professional accounting principles like double-entry accounting. While the more popular (and more expensive) software programs use “accounts” to represent assets and liabilities and use “categories” to record expenses and income, GnuCash considers assets, liabilities, income, and expenses to all be accounts. That means that every transaction is recorded as a transfer between two accounts.

It’s a little weird at first, but it begins to make more sense as you have more practice.

GnuCash will let you easily track your checkbook. When you create a new book of accounts (which GnuCash calls a file because the database is stored in a computer file), the default options include a checking account. You can use the default checking account, or add more if you have more than one to track, to keep your checkbook up to date.

When you write a check, you could record a decrease (GnuCash calls this a “withdrawal”) to your checking account and an increase (GnuCash calls this an “expense”) to the appropriate expense account, such as your telephone expense account. In this manner, your checking account in GnuCash will always match your checkbook. You will be able to see at a glance how much money you have truly available in the account, to help prevent overdrafts.

The problem with tracking a checking account is the reconciliation between your book of accounts (ledger) and the bank statement. If you have outstanding checks — checks you have sent out but haven’t been cashed by the recipients — then the balance in GnuCash won’t match the balance at the bank.

While the above method will be fine for most people and has the benefit of tracking the usable balance in your checking account, if you want to keep a true reconciliation, then you need an additional account. The other option is to create a liability account called “Outstanding Checks.”

When you write a check, record an increase to Outstanding Checks and an increase to the appropriate expense account, perhaps the telephone expense account like above. Then, once the phone company deposits your check and your bank has decreased your balance, you can record a decrease to Outstanding Checks and a decrease to your checking account.

Both options are accurate, so it’s up to you which method to use. If you download GnuCash, both options are free as well. GnuCash does more than just balance your checkbook, as well. It does more than you might expect from free software. Here are some of the features you might find useful:

  • QIF and OFX support, so you can download files from your bank and reconcile your accounts
  • Schedule recurring transactions
  • Track your investment accounts and download stock prices
  • Use multiple currencies
  • Generate reports and graphs to illustrate your finances

There’s one drawback. If you want to run GnuCash on an operating system other than Windows, you’ll have to “compile” the software yourself. There are instructions for installing and using GnuCash here.

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The First Step to Cleaning Up Your Finances

by Flexo

A few years before starting Consumerism Commentary, I realized I was in a financial predicament. The salary I had been earning from my non-profit job was barely paying this bills in addition to the cost of commuting to the said job. I was relying more and more on my credit card to get by, ignoring ... Continue reading this article…

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