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A reader and friend is looking for some basic financial advice. It just so happens that April is National Financial Literacy Month, so the timing is perfect because I am in a sharing mood. I get to share his situation and my suggestions with Consumerism Commentary readers, and readers have the option of offering their own thoughts.

I’m neither a financial adviser nor a financial planner, but I thought I could help by sharing my philosophy, my approach, and what will, I hope, pay off for me in the long run. Here is a little about my friend: He owns his own business and his wife is a public high school teacher. They are both 33 years old, living in New Jersey. Right now, most of their money is in a high-yield online savings account. First, he asked me how he could earn more on that money and I suggested switching to a bank offering a higher interest rate like FNBO Direct and we touched on certificates of deposit, but he is looking for more.

So I asked him what his goals are and what kind of money we were talking about. He wants to save for retirement and for his child’s education, and he would like all his money to be earning more in general.

Here was most of my response. If you have anything to add or change, please feel free to leave a comment at the bottom of this article. Don’t consider this financial advice. If you take action on my suggestions, you do so at your own risk.

Email begins here:

For retirement, you should be putting some money into an Individual 401(k). Since you work for yourself, you don’t have an employer offering you a 401(k), so you can just set one up for yourself.

You can invest up to $16,500 in that account in 2009. The 401(k) is the best option for retirement if you don’t do anything else. You should only invest money in this account that you’re 98% sure you won’t need until you’re 59 1/2. You can borrow from it before then if you need to, but if you don’t pay yourself back, you’ll owe penalties. Since this is a long way off, you should choose a stock index fund like VTSMX.

If you invest in an index like VTSMX, you would have to change your allocation as you get close to retirement to move away from stocks and more towards bonds. Bonds have a lower return (over the long term — they can beat stocks over the short term) but are safer, stocks are riskier but can provide a higher return. A “lifecycle” or Target Retirement Fund changes the allocation between stocks and bonds automatically as you get older. So if you invest in a lifecycle fund now, it will be mostly stocks, but as you get older, it will gradually shift towards bonds. This will help you preserve your money and you’ll be less exposed to stock market crashes and recessions when you’re getting closer to making a withdrawal.

You might choose the Target Retirement 2040 Fund or if you want to be more aggressive (more risk, possibly higher return), you could choose the Target Retirement 2045 Fund.

I’m not sure what your wife’s options are, but she probably has a pension which will help out in retirement and she probably has an option for a retirement contribution plan such as a 403(b), basically a “non-profit” 401(k).

The next priority would be education for your daughter or any other future kids you decide to have. The most popular option here is a 529 Account. Again there are low-cost options with Vanguard. But if you’re pretty sure your kids will go to school in New Jersey, you can invest in a New Jersey state 529 plan because you’ll save on taxes. If you invest in a 529, you must withdraw the money for education expenses only. If you withdraw it for some other purpose, you’ll owe taxes.

The next priority would be everything else you want to save for. Make sure you have enough in an emergency fund (in a high-yield savings account like ING or FNBO Direct) to cover your expenses for a few months in case you’re not working and Ali loses her job. If your mortgage interest rate is high, you might want to pay that off faster because that will save you money down the road. Otherwise use that money to invest in a regular investment account. I would suggest stocks (VTSMX) even for your non-retirement investing because they’ve taken a beating recently, and while they might go down a little in the short term, they should recover nicely (unless the United States economy is fundamentally flawed, but I don’t think it is).

I’m suggesting Vanguard because they generally have the least expensive investment options. There are no account maintenance fees if you agree to email delivery of statements (rather than paper) and the funds’ expenses are lower than just about every other company. And low expenses means you keep more of your own money, which is good when you have lots of time for it to grow.

Most of Vanguard’s funds require an initial $3,000 investment. So when you set them up, you’d have to start with at least that much in your 401(k), your 529, and your regular investment account — that’s $3,000 initial investment (or more if you wish) in each of those. But after that you can set up automatic investments or just leave it alone for the rest of the year.

Don’t be seduced by investing directly in individual stocks. That’s like gambling. Stick to broad non-managed index funds like VTSMX because it will spread your risk around and it’s proven to beat stockpickers’ performance over the long term.

If you’ve maxed out your 401(k) and want to invest more for retirement, consider a Roth IRA and a SEP IRA.

End of email.

Do you agree or disagree with my suggestions? What did I leave out of this message?

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One of the most well-received stories about the 2008 financial meltdown is the This American Life episode titled “The Giant Pool of Money“. It’s from “way back” in May and goes into great detail without sounding like Ben Stein’s bored teacher character from “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off”. Don’t worry if you find Ira Glass off-putting; he barely shows up in this episode. Instead the reporting is done by Alex Blumberg and Adam Davidson.

At the beginning of October, Alex and Adam returned with a follow up story called “Another Frightening Show About the Economy“. What’s more, they’ve started their own show in the same “jargon-free” style of economics reporting called “Planet Money” (blog | podcast | twitter).

For example, in the interview from yesterday, they explain that regular people like me shouldn’t look to the Dow Jones Industrial Average if we want to be freaked out about how bad things are. We should instead look at the Treasury 3-month bond rate. The higher that number goes, the calmer we should be. I appreciate this kind of reporting.

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Target retirement funds are increasing in popularity. The funds, and they may be called “lifecycle funds” or “target date funds” or “age-based funds” or a variety of other terms are mutual funds comprising other mutual funds. The allocation percentages of the constituent mutual funds change as time progresses, theoretically becoming more conservative as you approach your target.

For example, the Vanguard Target Retirement 2050 Fund (VFIFX) is a mutual fund of funds designed for people who expect to retire in the year 2050. You would expect an investment — one that is designed to mirror your investing strategy based on your time horizon — to be quite aggressive in order to make the most of the decades between now and the time you need to access its value.

This reveals the first problem I have with target retirement funds: they are often too conservative. VFIFX contains five other Vanguard mutual funds: Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund, Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund, Vanguard European Stock Market Index Fund, Vanguard Pacific Stock Index Fund, and Vanguard Emerging Markets Stock Index Fund. As of today, 72% of the fund is invested in the Total Stock Market, 10% is invested in the Total Bond Market, and the remaining 18% is split between the others in amounts hardly meaningful.

I don’t see this as aggressive enough for someone who has such a long time horizon. I would suggest eliminating the bond component entirely and distributing the rest towards the international funds.

My second issue with target retirement funds is how it could lull an investor into a false sense of safety and security. While creating a hands-off approach to investing, it encourages buying and holding which is great for long-term success, but it opens the door to complacency. Your reallocations are on auto-pilot, so if you decide to change your time horizon, you may find yourself under or over-exposed to risk. Also, Vanguard, or which ever management company you choose for your target retirement fund, may decide to change strategies in the future, to the point where their guidelines no longer match your expectations.

Target retirement funds to encompass your entire portfolio. If you’ve chosen the Vanguard Target Retirement 2050 Fund for your entire 401(k) election, but you have a Roth IRA where this fund is not available, then you’re modifying your asset allocation away from that prescribed by Vanguard. If you are comfortable with Vanguard’s exposure to equities in their fund but you decide to invest in VTSMX separately in your Roth IRA, you’ve disturbed your overall asset allocation and opened yourself up to risk you may not have intended for your retirement funds.

Fund managing companies can’t seem to agree on the most appropriate asset allocation for a certain target. I mentioned Vanguard’s current allocation rule for its “2050″ fund. Fidelity has a different strategy for those retiring the same year. The Fidelity Freedom 2050 Fund (FFFHX) invests in 68.5% domestic stock funds, 20.9% international stock funds, and 10.5% bond funds. Overall, this is similar to to Vanguard fund of funds, but the specific composition of the international portion provides a strong enough contrast that could have profound effects over 40 years of investment.

The fees for target retirement funds are usually a combination of the fees of the underlying investments. Rarely, a target retirement fund will add a management fee in addition to the feeds already charged by the funds held. Pay attention to these fees, because they will eat into the value of your investment. With a distant target like 2050, the fees eat into your returns even more.

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In the interest of further consolidating my finances, this past week I cashed in a small collection of 1988 series EE bonds which I’d kept hidden away ever since. All had reached and surpassed their maturity dates long ago, so they were worth their face value and then some.

Here’s what mine were worth, which should give you an idea of what to expect if you’ve got some series EE bonds of that vintage hidden away as well:

1 $500 bond = $684.00
1 $100 bond = $131.52
3 $50 bonds = $68.40 each

All in all, I had $1,020.72 in cash, which I put directly into my savings account to reinvest. This does mean I’ll have to account for $645.72 in interest when I do my 2007 taxes, but I’ve got lots of charitable donations this year to offset this so I think it’ll be okay.

I might have saved cashing these until after I retired to gain a better tax advantage, but was eager to consolidate these gift monies into the rest of my savings to better leverage them for other, more immediate investments.

Do you own bonds? What’s your savings bond strategy?

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