As featured in The Wall Street Journal, Money Magazine, and more!

Posts tagged as:

IRAs

Over the next couple of weeks, six finalists will be auditioning for the opening of “staff writer” at Consumerism Commentary. Each will be providing two guest articles to share with readers. After the six writers have shared their guest articles, readers will have an opportunity to provide feedback before we select the staff writer.

This article is presented by J.J., a financial adviser and published financial author.

Roth IRA conversion rules are changing next year. Even if you make more than $100,000, you’ll be allowed to convert Traditional IRA money into after-tax Roth money. You can even spread the tax payments out over a few years to make it easier if you convert during 2010.

Does it make sense to do so?

We’ve touched on the 2010 Roth conversion rules before. Let’s dig deeper into why it may or may not make sense to convert.

Why convert?

The 2010 conversion rules may help some taxpayers. In general, the opportunity is more attractive if:

  • You think tax rates are headed higher
  • You’ve been making nondeductible IRA contributions
  • You have a high net worth or you want to leave more for your heirs
  • You want to diversify the tax status of your money, just like you diversify your investments

Higher tax rates

With higher tax rates in the future, you can get your tax payment out of the way now — at a lower rate. What might make tax rates higher in your retirement years? You could have higher earnings, lawmakers could raise tax rates overall, or both.

With all the talk of government bailouts and broken entitlement systems (like Social Security and Medicare) it’s easy to see why rates could go up. The government needs money, but the solution may not be as simple as an income tax rate increase. There are other ways they can drum up cash:

  • Consumption or value added taxes (VAT)
  • Change how much you and your employer pay for Social Security
  • Change limits on retirement plan contributions
  • “Forget” to change certain limits with inflation (IRA and retirement plan contributions, compensation recognized for Social Security and retirement plan calculations, etc)
  • Change the laws and make Roth distributions taxable (or potentially taxable, like Social Security benefits)
  • Other strategies I’m not smart enough to understand

If you’re betting on higher tax rates, make sure you understand how the bet can go wrong.

Nondeductible contributions

If you’ve been making nondeductible contributions, you’ve practically made Roth contributions anyway. In fact, you probably couldn’t deduct the contributions because you make too much money. For you, the conversion option is worth investigating because it would allow you to get the earnings out tax-free – as opposed to just the contributions.

Ideally, you’ve been making nondeductible contributions in recent years, and you have little or no earnings in the account after the recent market decline (sometimes there’s a silver lining). If so, the tax hit may be minimal. However, you should look at all your IRA accounts in aggregate to figure out how much it’ll cost.

Diversify, diversify, diversify

Diversification is another decent reason to consider converting. Most people have all (or a majority) of their retirement savings in Traditional pre-tax accounts. They’ll have to pay income tax as they spend that money. Since we don’t know what tax rates will do, it may make sense to hedge your bets.

If you have a choice of funds (pre-tax and post-tax) in retirement, you can choose whether or not to increase your tax bill in a given year. Suppose you do some consulting work and earn money – it may make sense to take a Roth distribution that year. On the other hand, you can take Traditional distributions when you have little or no taxable income.

Estate planning

If you’re fortunate enough to have an estate planning problem — or just more money than you need — then Roth money can come in handy. By converting, you pay taxes today so your heirs can take tax-free distributions (unless they change the rules and start taxing Roth distributions, of course). You also remove money from your estate when you pay the tax bill.

You’re required to take distributions from Traditional IRAs during your lifetime, starting after you reach age 70.5. The government wants you to generate some tax liability on all that money you’ve been protecting, so they force you to dribble it out over your remaining years. Roth IRAs do not have this requirement, so you can leave more for your heirs.

Proceed with caution

If the idea attracts you, don;t rush into anything. In the coming months, we’ll learn more about the complexities of the 2010 conversion rules, and how the landscape may change (for example, will tax rates increase in 2011 and 2012 — making it less attractive to spread the payments out?). Unless tax rates in your retirement years increase substantially, you probably won’t hit a home run by converting. However, you might come out ahead or just enjoy having more flexibility in retirement.

Remember that if you earn over $100,000, you’re already in a fairly high tax bracket (at today’s rates at least). A conversion won’t be cheap, and you should pay the taxes due from savings available to you outside of your retirement accounts.

Give your eyes a break and listen: a recent Consumerism Commentary podcast has more insight into the 2010 conversion rules.

Will you take advantage of the Roth conversion rules next year? Why or why not?

{ 4 comments }



The Individual Retirement Account (IRA) allows anyone who earns income the opportunity to save for retirement, regardless of the plans offered by his or her employer. An IRA is not an investment in itself, it’s an account type. Within the IRA, you can keep your money for the future in money market funds, CDs, stocks, even gold. The government limits how much you’re allowed to invest in an IRA each year. Here are the contribution limits for 2009. In addition, the government also reduces these contribution limits for certain types of IRAs depending on your income. For individuals over the age of 50, the government raises the contribution limit to help “catch-up.”

Traditional and Roth IRAs

There are two main “flavors” of IRAs: traditional and Roth. Both types include the benefit of allowing money to grow tax-free while invested and untouched. That means that even while your account grows, you won’t have to pay taxes on capital gains or interest. That leaves more money in the account, with returns possibly compounding upon returns. A traditional IRA adds the benefit of tax-deductible contributions. In other words, if you contribute $5,000 to your traditional IRA, if you aren’t excluded by your level of income, you can deduct the $5,000 from the income you report on your tax return. You will pay tax, however, when you are retired and take a distribution from the account.

Contributions to a Roth IRA are not tax-deductible. The most common way of describing this is that you invest in Roth IRAs with “after-tax” money and traditional IRAs with “pre-tax” or “before-tax” money. When you take a distribution from your Roth IRA after you’ve retired, you will not pay tax on your capital gains, of which the plan is to have many.

You can withdraw money from an IRA at any time, but if you do so before age 59 1/2, you may face some penalties. First, with a traditional IRA, you will be taxed on your contribution and gains withdrawn, plus be subject to a 10% penalty in the form of a tax for “early withdrawal.”

Which IRA to choose?

In general, when deciding between a Roth IRA and traditional IRA, the choices comes down to your tax bracket. If you think you have a lower tax rate now than you will when you retire, the Roth IRA will keep you from paying tax on your contributions when you withdraw after age 59 1/2. If you think you will have a lower tax rate in retirement, take the deduction in a traditional IRA now and pay the tax on contributions when you withdraw after 59 1/2. Sounds simple, right? There are a lot of variables to consider. For example, will this country’s tax rates be much higher by the time you retire?

More importantly, will the government decide to change the tax advantaged status of these accounts, and will that change affect current investors, before you reach retirement? Many people hedge their bets on the future tax rates by investing a portion of their maximum allowed contribution in a traditional IRA and the remaining portion in a Roth IRA.

There are numerous nuances to consider as well. If your income is too high to qualify for a Roth IRA right now, you can contribute to a non-deductible traditional IRA and “recharacterize” the IRA as a “Roth IRA” by paying taxes next year, regardless of your income level in 2010. There are certain circumstances in which you can withdraw your money from a Roth IRA without paying the 10% penalty. Using your Roth IRA to pay for your first house is one of the qualifying cases. Furthermore, you can re-contribute to a Roth IRA if you withdraw your contributions.

If you’re self-employed, even if only as a side job to complement your main career, you can also contribute to a SEP IRA as your own employer. This greatly increases the amount you can save for retirement.

Setting up your initial IRA

I find it important to look for low-cost investments for IRAs. Since they are tax-advantaged — you don’t pay taxes on gains and interest while your money stays with the IRA — you can freely trade without having to report your income to the government, leaving more money working for you. For the last few years, I have been using Vanguard exclusively for my IRAs. They have low cost index funds and solid money market funds available. The account opening process is straightforward, and once your initial account is active, it takes only a few clicks to contribute, transfer money from one fund to another, and create automatic investment plans.

Another popular company for IRAs is Fidelity.

This is only n introduction to Individual Retirement Accounts. Please feel free to share any tips you have or experiences you’ve had with IRAs.

{ 11 comments }



On December 30, 2006 I officially announced my financial goals for 2007. Before I set new goals for 2008, I should take a look at my progress this year. Below, I’ll cite the goals I set a year ago and evaluate my progress.

Income: Generate $40,000 in revenue outside of my day job. I think this is attainable. My side income has seen fairly consistently growing and as long as I keep working hard, I should be able to reach this amount. One challenge related to the environment becoming increasingly competitive. Stretch goal: $60,000.

Income results: Passed with flying colors. Preliminary numbers show that I significantly exceeded my stretch goal. I’ll still have to make some adjustments as I received income for some other individuals that still needs to be distributed, but I should clear $70,000 in income related to internet publishing. Most of that comes from advertising on Consumerism Commentary, but an increasing portion comes from affiliate sales. While I am grateful for my success thus far, I am still blogging because I enjoy writing and building online communities. The satisfaction in blogging is generated by regular readers, but the income comes generally from passers-by who are generally looking for something else.

Spending: I’ve managed to keep my spending fairly low over the last few years, except for gift season and food expenses, like dining out and groceries. I’m fine with the spending on gifts but my goal for 2007 will be to create a budget for food and stick to it. This will involve buying smarter and healthier groceries, cooking more, and eating out less. If I can stick to $100 a month for groceries and $100 a month for dining out, it would be a big improvement. Stretch goal: $80 and $80.

golSpending results: Failed. On average, I spent $117 per month on groceries and $167 per month on dining out. Both numbers are slightly up from last year, probably reflecting a higher cost of food rather than a change in behavior. If anything, I shopped more efficiently and ate out at restaurants less this year. Including both the “dining out” category and “convenience food” category (which includes lunch at work and snacks), I spent $190 per month this year compared with $230 last year.

However, spending in general has increased. Earlier this year, I moved into a new apartment that is larger, more comfortable, and more inviting than my old location. Over the last few months, I’ve purchased some things that make my time in said apartment more enjoyable, including a high-definition television, an HD DVD player, and an XBOX 360 game system. I don’t expect this type of spending to continue, however.

Investing in 401(k): I’m currently investing 12% of my day-job income into the 401(k) my company offers. The only reason I can afford this is through the help of my side business income. My goal for 2007 is to increase this to 15% by July. This should be possible with a little income bump. Stretch goal: max out the 401(k) with an investment of $15,000. That will be a significant stretch.

401(k) results: Exceeded my goal. In May this year, I increased my 401(k) deferral from to 25% after an earlier increase from 12% to 16%. That’s not quite enough to max out the 401(k) in my low-paying job. According to my last pay stub of the year, I contributed about $10,000 to the 401(k). My employer matched some of that contribution, as well. Investing this much for retirement is only possible due to the additional income mentioned above.

Investing in Roth IRA: I already max out my Roth IRA investment. My goal for this is for nothing to change.

Roth IRA results: As expected. It’s no surprise, but I fully contributed to my Roth IRA this year. Doing so may have some unintended consequences, unfortunately. I’ll have to check after preparing my 2007 tax return, but I may have to withdraw a portio of my Roth IRA contributions. For 2007, if modified adjusted gross income exceeds $99,000 then the IRS won’t allow a full contribution to a Roth IRA. With an income above $114,000, the Roth IRA is completely unavailable. At this point, it’s too early for me to tell whether I’ll have to withdraw funds from my 2007 Roth IRA at the last minute.

Saving: The account I have marked for emergencies would cover one month of my current expenses. If I were to be in an emergency situation (i.e., no job) for longer than a month, I still have other cash I could use before resorting to credit, but that would involve borrowing from other savings goals. I’d like to double the size of my emergency fund by the end of the year. I’d also like to double the percentages of my day-job income I devote to long term savings goals, like relocation (a house, hopefully). Stretch goal: triple the percentages.

Saving results: Succeeded. I have doubled the balance in the savings account earmarked for emergencies, which now would last about two months without income from either my day job or my side business. I still have various savings accounts earmarked for other goals that can be tapped if necessary. Unfortunately, with income coming from various sources and going to various accounts, it’s been a bit difficult for me to track the percentages. It’s safe to say that on average throughout the year, I saved or invested a larger percentage of my total income than I spent.

Debt: If I follow my schedule, I will pay off my car loan (at 2% interest from a relative) by September. The interest rate is favorable enough I’d rather keep the money in savings, so I’m not going to speed this up. On the other hand, I have about $18,000 in student loans remaining to be paid. The interest rate isn’t as favorable at 4.25%, but the interest paid is tax-deductible.

Debt results: Achieved the goal ahead of time. I paid the remaining balance of my car loan off in July. While 2% interest wasn’t hurting, and I was earning more from interest in savings than paying in interest on the loan, I still wanted to rid myself of that debt as soon as possible. The money to buy the car was lent to me by a family member, so I felt like the right thing to do was pay it off as soon as possible. He could have been earning higher interest with that money in a savings account.

I still have a balance on student loans, a combination of money used for undergraduate studies and my MBA. My masters degree was 90% paid for by my employer, but I didn’t always use the reimbursements to pay down the loan. When I originally started the MBA, the financial adviser for the university suggested I get a loan anyway and use reimbursements to pay back the loan. Looking back, I probably should have used the reimbursements to pay the school directly, avoiding any involvement of debt.

Charity: The non-profit organizations I’ve worked with in the past appreciate volunteers who give their time, and this is the approach I generally take. I like that 100% of the time I give affects the organization. When you give money, a portion is kept by the organization for administrative expenses and will never make it to the programs sponsored by that organization. While I understand that administrative expenses need to be paid for, I believe I have more of an effect by directly involving myself. Despite this, my goal for 2007 is to select an organization that means something to me, one that I cannot spend time with and one I know the money will be put directly to its purpose, and donate $1,000. Stretch goal: $2,000.

Charity results: Met, with explanation. On my expense sheet, I donated $5,127 to charity this year. This includes an arts organization that supports youth musical education and performance, the pfblogs.org Financial Literacy Challenge at DonorsChoose and a charitable gift fund. Since I did not yet choose a recipient for the $5,000, it’s hard to say that I fully met the goal. I’ve written several times about my difficulty in choosing recipients for charitable giving. I’ll have to perform some deeper research and get involved with something new next year.

Soon I will decide and post my goals for 2008, which is sure to be an exciting year.

Image credit: Daquella manera

{ 10 comments }

The government, when not encouraging spending to spur the immediate economy, encourages saving to keep the future economy on target. This encouragement comes in the form of tax breaks given for directing money away from consumerism today towards retirement (consumerism later).

The first tax break you can get, and generally should get, is for a 401(k) contribution. If a 401(k) or 403(b) is available to you, there are several good reasons to take advantage. Not only is the amount you contribute deducted from the income on which your tax will be calculated, but some employers offer a matching contribution. If you can, contributing the amount to take advantage of the maximum match — free money — is a great decision. Contributing beyond that amount, to the maximum of $15,500, is a way to diversify your tax exposure.

You can deduct a further $4,000 from your taxable income for a $4,000 contribution to a Traditional IRA. There are certain conditions which would make the contribution non-deductible, depending mostly on income.

The next step would be SEP IRAs. I have Schedule C income in addition to my day job, so I can put a portion of that into another retirement plan. The amount invested, to a generous maximum of $45,000, can be deducted from my Schedule C income. There’s another limit, however. Only 25% of your income can be directed towards the SEP IRA.

The CNN Money article (linked below) also mentions the Keogh plan, with which I have no experience. There are details here. The contribution limit this year is $45,000 or 100% of your income, which ever is lower.

If your total income is $25,000 or less (or $50,000 if you file jointly as a married couple), you may also qualify for the “saver’s credit.” That could provide you with a credit of up to $2,000.

The IRS also allows you to create and fund these retirement accounts as late as the date you file your taxes. I start working on my taxes in January or February (though I try to be conscious of my taxes throughout the entire year) and will make the decision of how much to invest at that point. There’s no need to rush to finish everything by January 31, but it doesn’t hurt to be aware of these options.

Should the government do more to encourage saving?

7 Year-End Tax-Saving Moves [CNN Money]

{ 2 comments }