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April is National Financial Literacy Month in the United States. In most cases, schools do not extensively teach financial skills. Teenagers, highly susceptible to messages from the media, often do not have guidance from teachers, who are not trained to teach financial skills, or from parents, many of whom do not model healthy financial behavior. This series of articles at Consumerism Commentary serves to help inspire discussion about basic financial concepts. Please feel free to forward this article to someone who might benefit from a basic financial overview.

Forming a budget is a key to taking control of your finances, and they are best begun when you are young. This is the fourth article in the Money Basics series; so far this series has covered checking accounts, savings accounts, and interest.

I will be the first to admit that I don’t like budgets. My personal approach is to review and adjust my spending rather than create spending limits in advance. However, there was a time in my life that budgeting was necessary, and there was a time that I should have focused on a budget but didn’t.

When I was a teenager, I spent some time visiting one of my friends. He had material desires, like many teenagers, but relied on his parents. Often, his requests were met with a common parental response: “I’d love to help you, but it’s not in our budget.” My impression was not that his parents actually kept a formal budget; this response was just an excuse to curtail the collection of useless things. Regardless of the truth behind the words, a budget came to mean a restriction or limitation designed to eliminate fun and the things we want.

It’s true that budgeting, assigning categories to your expenses and deciding how to focus your spending, is not a fun exercise. And I think those who try to make it artificially fun are missing the point. Like bathing and cleaning your house, it’s just something that needs to be done — at least, at first.

Whether your income is from an allowance, a part-time job, or a full-time job, it’s smart to create your own budget. The point of the budget isn’t to curtail fun, it’s to ensure you have the money for fun when you want it. If chores entitle you to $75 a month, you have $75 to split into categories of spending and savings. If you have no required expenses like car insurance or gasoline, you may decide that $40 could be directed towards savings (a good idea) while the remaining $35 can be used for movies, concerts, or anything else you may enjoy. Savings should be the first part of your budget, and with no expenses you could put at least half your income into savings with the rest available for fun.

Budgeting gets more complicated when you have more responsibilities and therefore more expenses. For example, if you own a car you will need to factor in car insurance, gasoline, maintenance and repairs. Suddenly you are not having fun with the money you earn, or at least, not as much of the money you earn. Unfortunately that’s the stigma of budgeting.

Visualize your budgeting

In today’s world of electronic transactions, debit cards, and online access you your bank, it’s quaint to think about placing cash in envelopes with labels. This is a great way to visualize your budget, however. Start with a set of envelopes labeled “savings,” “car” (or “transportation”), “food,” “rent,” “utilities,” “charity” and “fun.” In each of these envelopes, you will place a portion of the income you receive. If you imagine you receive your income in cash at the beginning of each month, this envelope system makes sense. Start by putting 10% of your income directly in your savings envelope. This is a good habit to fall into early.

Rent and utilities are generally predictable expenses that are roughly the same very month. On day one, when you receive your income, place the exact amount of cash you know you will owe for rent and utilities into the appropriate envelopes. After these set expenses, you can decide how to divvy up your cash.

You know you will need to eat throughout the month, so that might be your next focus. It may be harder to imagine how much money you will need for food without tracking your spending for a time, but make a guess for now. Do the same for your transportation envelope. The remainder can be split between charity and fun, but consider beefing up your savings envelope, too.

Don’t seal the envelopes. You will need to remove the money once your expenses are due, but you are also allowed to transfer money from one envelope to another. Going on a road trip? Transfer some money this month from your savings envelope to the transportation envelope. (If you don’t have enough in the savings envelope, it may be a sign that you’re not ready to go on the road trip.) If you eat less this month, you can transfer some cash from the food envelope to another, such as savings or fun.

For your first budget, use a pencil and paper, even if you don’t use actual cash and envelopes. Look at the numbers and get used to working with them, doing simple calculations to make sure you’re spending less than you’re earning and saving at least 10% of your income. A pencil and paper system is great because it’s practically free and completely customizable. There are free online tools that help you budget, like Quicken Online and Mint, but their features can be overwhelming if all you want to do is set up initial flexible guidelines for your spending. Software designed specifically for budgeting, like Mvelopes, You Need a Budget, and PearBudget have thorough features, but you must buy the software or pay a monthly fee for its use. And unless you have room for a budget category called “software,” you may want to skip this in favor of the simpler but just as effective pencil and paper.

Suggestions for advanced budgeting

Here are a few tips I shared when I wrote about taking control of your finances.

Consider the 60% rule. I’m not a fan of rules, but sometimes a guideline can help get you started on the right path. As an individual, you can decide what’s right for you, but sometimes an example helps. The 60% rule suggests that the first 60% of your gross income (before income taxes are taken out) should be designated for your non-discretionary, essential expenses, like housing, food, clothing, and taxes. The rest of the income should be split with 10% going towards savings, 10% towards retirement, and the rest for “fun,” or your discretionary expenses.

Reward yourself for staying under budget. If your budget is realistic — not too difficult nor too easy to achieve — then you should reward yourself when you spend less than you plan. With your “fun” expenses, your spending may be variable month to month and difficult to predict. If you make a conscientious effort to spend less than you expected, perhaps by seeing fewer movies in the theater or cutting back on vacation plans, you have extra money left in your envelope (virtual or otherwise). First, move that excess money to savings. If you don’t perceive savings to be an intrinsic reward, treat yourself to something you’d like.

Use ING Direct’s subaccount feature. Since you can split money in ING Direct’s high-yield savings account into separate buckets, you can label these subaccounts to match your budgeting categories. this lets you earn a decent interest rate while keeping your money organized.

Pay yourself first. No matter what, make sure some of your excess income is diverted to your savings. If you set up direct deposit into your checking or savings account, this will require less work. Your savings envelope contains 100% of your income (minus income taxes) after you are paid, and from there you can distribute funds to your remaining envelopes.

(The following tip is new.)

Budgets are not set in stone. Once you have the process down to a science, don’t be afraid to loosen your grip and introduce flexibility. You can borrow from one category to pay for larger expenses in another, and you can borrow from one month to pay for the next. Just don’t get caught into the trap of borrowing from your future.

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April is National Financial Literacy Month in the United States. In most cases, schools do not extensively teach financial skills. Teenagers, highly susceptible to messages from the media, often do not have guidance from teachers, who are not trained to teach financial skills, or from parents, many of whom do not model healthy financial behavior. This series of articles at Consumerism Commentary serves to help inspire discussion about basic financial concepts. Please feel free to forward this article to someone who might benefit from a basic financial overview.

This article covers the staple financial resource for anyone seeking long-term financial stability, the savings account. This is the third article in the Money Basics series; so far this series has covered checking accounts and savings accounts.

What is interest?

Interest is a fee paid for the use of someone else’s money. Any individual or company that lends money will charge the borrower interest, always designated as a percentage like 5%. This percentage is almost always means “per year.” The most common forms of interest appear in savings accounts, where a bank pays you interest for depositing your money in the account, and credit cards and other loans, where you pay a company for allowing you to use their money for a time. Hundreds of years ago, society frowned upon charging interest, but as lending money became more prevalent for uses other than acquiring goods such as modern commerce, the stigma of interest slowly disappeared in many cultures.

The two main forms of interest are “simple interest” and “compound interest.” Simple interest is easily calculated. If you borrow $1,000 from a bank that charges you 5% simple interest, you will owe 5% more than $1,000, or $1,050, at the end of the year if you do not borrow more and do not pay back part or all of the loan. The $1,000 is a “principal.” Multiply the principal and the rate of interest (5% becomes 0.05 when multiplying) to determine the amount of interest ($50). Adding the interest amount and the principal results in the total due after one year: $1,050. With simple interest, if you don’t pay the loan back until the end of the second year, you will have another $50 to pay for a total of $1,100. Your second year of interest is based on your original principal.

Compound interest is more common than simple interest, but there are many nuances. Say the bank charges 5% interest on that $1,000 loan, but it is compounded annually rather than not compounded (simple). At the end of the first year, the first year’s interest, $50, is added (compounded) to the principal. Your second year’s interest is then calculated based on your new principal of $1,050. 5% of $1,050 is $52.50, so rather than owing $1,100 at the end of the second year, you would owe $1,102.50.

If only life were that simple. Interest can also be compounded monthly, daily, or continuously. A 5% interest rate compounded monthly, paid to you by a bank in return for your $1,000 deposit, leaves you with $1,051.16 in your bank account at the end of the year assuming no further deposits or withdrawals. That is a little more than the $1,050 of simple interest or interest compounded annually. If that same 5% interest rate is compounded daily, your ending balance would be $1,051.27. Compounded continuously, the 5% rate would also result in $1,051.27, but a fraction of a cent more than the result of daily compounding.

Banks will usually describe their compounding method in the fine print, but this is only a minor concern for savings accounts, as I’ll explain below.

Don’t be misled by interest rates and terminologies

You would think that all financial terms would carry the same definitions regardless of the circumstances in which they are used. But there is some confusion when comparing interest rates for loans with interest rates for savings accounts. Indeed, there is further confusion when comparing savings account interest rates from one bank to another bank. Here are some tips for discerning the differences.

Loans, like mortgages, are often advertised by interest rate. But sometimes, a secondary rate, is also given. The first rate on the advertisement is the nominal interest rate and the second rate is the effective interest rate; the true cost of borrowing the money including the results of compounding as well as any fees that may be charged. Consider the mortgage loan advertisement I found online yesterday.

Mortgage advertisementThis ad lists an interest rate of 4.625% but the true annual cost is actually 4.879%. This advertiser calls the nominal interest rate the “rate” and the effective interest rate the “APR” (annual percentage rate), and this is common terminology for loans. Lenders are required to clearly display the true annual cost of a loan, the APR, but this often just leads to more confusion.

Unfortunately, savings accounts reverse part of this word usage pattern. A savings account’s APR usually refers to the nominal interest rate, and the true annual result, after compounding based on that particular bank’s method, is called the “APY” (annual percentage yield). For example, in our continuous compounding method mentioned above, while the savings account’s interest rate is 5%, the APY is closer to 5.127%. When banks advertise their savings accounts, they usually include the APY, leaving the nominal interest rate to be found only in fine print if anywhere. The APY is a standard metric that makes it easy to compare savings accounts across banks regardless of the type of interest, and I use APYs to compare high-yield savings rates here.

If you are thoroughly confused, you can always head to dinkytown.net, which offers calculators to help you determine a loan’s APR (true annual cost) if you know the loan’s (nominal) interest rate and fees and to help you compare how much more you would earn by switching to a savings account with a higher interest rate (APY).

Albert Einstein probably never called compound interest “the most powerful force in the universe,” though this quotation or one similar is often attributed to him. If you want to “get rich,” all you need is compound interest, preferably at a rate above inflation, and lots time on your side.

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April is National Financial Literacy Month in the United States. In most cases, schools do not extensively teach financial skills. Teenagers, highly susceptible to messages from the media, often do not have guidance from teachers, who are not trained to teach financial skills, or from parents, many of whom do not model healthy financial behavior. This series of articles at Consumerism Commentary serves to help inspire discussion about basic financial concepts. Please feel free to forward this article to someone who might benefit from a basic financial overview.

This article covers the staple financial resource for anyone seeking long-term financial stability, the savings account. This is the second article in the Money Basics series; this first article covers checking accounts.

What is a savings account?

Like a checking account, a savings account is a service offered by a bank or credit union for the purposes of keeping your money safe, secure, and accessible. While the purpose of a checking account is to allow frequent transactions, through checks, debit cards, or electronic transfers, the purpose of a savings account is long-term holding. If you have predictable income and predictable expenses, and you aim to spend less than you earn, you should be left with extra money at predictable intervals. This extra cash is the perfect candidate for deposit into a savings account.

One important aspect of savings accounts should be mentioned up front, and I emphasize this because it was never brought to my attention until I received a nasty letter of warning from a bank at which I broke this rule: you may only make up to six withdrawals per month (or statement cycle) from a savings account. If you choose to break this regulation or otherwise neglect to acknowledge it, your bank may penalize you by charging you a fee, disallowing the transaction, or even closing your account.

Savings accounts also earn interest. Every month, if you do not withdraw from your savings account, your money will grow. By giving your money to a banking institution in the form of a savings account, you are allowing that company to lend a portion your money to businesses and other individuals. Banks pay you for granting this privilege through interest payments to you.

Why do I need a savings account?

Any money that you do not need for immediate and expected expenses within one month, but that you might need in less than a year should be deposited in a savings account. This is the perfect place for a good portion of your emergency fund, money that you will use to pay your expenses if your income were to unexpectedly disappear or if an unpredictable expense were to arise.

For a suburban teenager in the United States, the first major expense might be a car. If you are like many, the first car will be purchased used (or “previously owned” as the salesmen like to euphemize). As you earn money from working during spring break or the summer, put as much from your paycheck into the savings account as possible. The more you keep in the bank, the more interest you will earn.

How do I manage my savings account?

My girlfriend has a passbook savings account. Every time she visits the bank to make a deposit, withdrawal, or transfer from or to her checking account, she hands the teller a booklet about the size of a passport. The teller uses a special printer to record the new transaction, any transactions that have not been recorded since the last printing like earned interest or ATM transactions, and the current account balance. While old-fashioned, this is a convenient way of managing a savings account. As more transactions are performed electronically or otherwise without the aid of a teller, the passbook is falling out of favor.

The popular alternative to the passbook is to receive a statement, mailed from the bank, each month. Like with the checking account, I recommend keeping your own record of every transaction that takes place within your savings account. Computer software like Quicken will allow you to do this, and in many cases, automatically compare what you have entered with the bank’s own records once they are available.

Almost all banks now offer online access, as well. If you ever want to check your bank balances, not trusting what you have entered in Quicken, your bank will allow you to visit a website where you may pass a security test and be granted access to view your account online.

How do I choose a savings account?

If you have previously opened a checking account, you may wish to open your first savings account at the same bank. This will allow you to perform immediate transfers from your checking account to your savings account. The benefit is your money will begin earning interest much faster than if you transferred money from one bank to another. The unfortunate down side is that most brick and mortar banks offer low rates of interest.

For this reason, I suggest opening a second savings account at a bank that offers high-yield online savings accounts. This option did not exist much more than ten years ago. A number of new online-only banks have been established since the dawn of the World Wide Web, offering great products and services with low overhead costs, creating an opportunity for them to offer better interest rates. Not to be outdone, old-fashioned brick and mortar banks are determined to compete in this new environment and have established online-only subsidiary companies or simply created savings accounts to compete with these higher interest rates.

When choosing a bank account, the interest rate offered should not be the only factor you consider, but it should be one of the most important. Look for a history of offering competitive rates as well as highly-rated customer service and an online interface with which you feel comfortable. I have reviewed the best online savings accounts, and my favorites include FNBO Direct for its consistently high interest rates and ING Direct for its above average rates and customer service record.

Once again, work to avoid fees. Some banks, particularly the antiquated branch-based banks, want you to maintain a minimum balance every month in order to avoid a monthly fee, while others don’t offer this avoidance option. These rules can get tricky. Some banks want you to have a combined balance between your checking account, savings account, and possibly even a line of credit for avoiding a fee.

Another popular fee is related to software. I mentioned Quicken above for keeping track of your savings account, but some banks will charge you a monthly fee if you connect to your bank’s electronic records directly from the program. In 2007, Wachovia charged me a surprise $5.95 for using Quicken, as I had been for several years. The bank changed their policy for some types of accounts, but the policy wasn’t intended to apply to the type of account I had. I was able to talk to a customer service representative to have the fee removed and a note placed on my account that would supposedly prevent that fee from ever being charged to me again. You might be able to talk your away out of these fees as well, but it’s better to avoid them in the first place.

When you compare interest rates between banks, you should look for the annual percentage yield (APY), not the annual percentage rate (APR) of interest. This allows a fair comparison between banks thanks to differences in compounding methods. This and more about interest will be explained in further detail later within the Money Basics series.

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April is National Financial Literacy Month in the United States. In most cases, schools do not extensively teach financial skills. Teenagers, highly susceptible to messages from the media, often do not have guidance from teachers, who are not trained to teach financial skills, or from parents, many of whom do not model healthy financial behavior. This series of articles at Consumerism Commentary serves to help inspire discussion about basic financial concepts. Please feel free to forward this article to someone who might benefit from a basic financial overview.

This article covers the first type of bank account recommended for teenagers and others who are first becoming financially responsible. This is the first article in the Money Basics series.

What is a checking account?

A checking account is one of the most basic tools for establishing your financial identity. When I was a teenager, my parents took me to the bank to open my first checking account. I don’t remember the details, but I brought the money I had collected from my allowance and birthday gifts from relatives to the bank, and they gave me an account number and a book of checks. This checking account allowed me to keep my money safe as I saved money for large purchases. Every month, I received a statement describing all the money I brought to the bank, everything I took out of the account, and checks I wrote (if any). Banks won’t know about every check right away, so it’s important that you track this account yourself (see below).

The checks you write when you want to pay someone allow that person or business to take the money directly from your bank account. So if you want to use the allowance you have saved to buy a present for your brother, rather than going to the bank to take out the money you have deposited and carrying around bills and coins, you can write a check.

I mentioned the bank kept my money safe. Despite the popularity of bank robberies in the movies, it is unlikely for money to be stolen from a bank. It is more likely that cash left in my house would disappear, be misplaced, or be spent on things I didn’t need. The government helps out, too, by guaranteeing your checking account won’t lose your money.

What is a debit card?

Checking accounts have improved since I set up my first with my parents. Now, almost every bank will offer a debit card to go along with the checking account. This debit card lets you add cash to your bank account through an automated teller machine (ATM, or MAC machine). The card, which fits in your wallet and is usually made of plastic like a credit card, also allows you to withdraw cash from your account whenever you need cash. Some stores allow you to use your debit card to pay for the things you wish to buy instead of writing checks or exchanging cash.

Why do I need a checking account?

Any money you intend to spend soon should go into a checking account. When you open your first checking account, you may not have many bills to pay every month, like car insurance or rent. But you may want to buy birthday gifts for your friends and family, eat out with your friends, or in some cases, you may even need to help support your family. All of these will be easier with a checking account, checks, and a debit card.

If you have a job, find out about having your paycheck sent directly to your bank. This saves you the trip to the bank every week (or every other week) and allows you to receive the money in your bank account sooner. It also keeps your hands off the money so you don’t have the easier opportunity to get in your own way as you save.

How do I manage my checking account?

Banks will usually stop you from spending more money than you have in your bank account, but that is problematic when you write checks. If you write a check manually, your bank won’t know about it until the person or business who receives the check takes it to their own bank to deposit it or turn it into cash. So it’s very important to keep track of the checks you write so you always know how much money you have. If you mess up and try to spend money that you don’t have, your bank will charge you fees. These fees are completely unnecessary, so avoid them by keeping track of your money.

When you receive a check book, you usually receive a register — pages with grids. Within these grids, you should write down every transaction in your checking account. Each line includes a space for the date, a description of the transaction, and the amount. Your first line should be your opening deposit, the money you gave the bank to open your account. If you opened your account with $100 on April 19, 2009, your register would look like this:

Date Check Number Description Deposit Withdrawal Balance
4/19/2009   Opening deposit $100.00   $100.00

If you decide to write a check on April 20 to buy a gift for a friend at Best Buy, your register might look like this:

Date Check Number Description Deposit Withdrawal Balance
4/19/2009   Opening deposit $100.00   $100.00
4/20/2009 301 Best Buy – gift for Dave   $40.00 $60.00

As you can see, if you had $100 in your bank account at the end of April 19 and you wrote a check for $40 on April 20, your remaining balance is $60. Regardless of what your bank says, you only have $60 left to spend. At the end of the month, when you receive a statement from the bank, you can compare the bank’s records with your own, identifying which checks are still outstanding — not listed on the bank statement.

Keeping track of your checking account with this register was easy before debit cards and ATMs. But just as technology has made it easier to spend your money, technology has made it easier to track your money. I use Quicken on my computer because it works just like the register described above, but it automatically compares the bank’s records with mine.

How do I choose a checking account?

You should look for a checking account that does not charge you unnecessary fees. Most banks offer “student checking accounts” which have low minimum balances (if any) and no monthly fees. This is a good place to start. Student checking accounts are otherwise identical to regular checking accounts, and you can compare them by visiting a bank’s website or visiting a bank in person and asking questions. I suggest convenience, which can take several forms. You may want to choose the same bank that your parents use the most so you can combine trips to the bank when you have money to deposit. You could also choose a bank that has a branch location close to your house.

I suggest looking for an account that doesn’t allow you to “overdraw” your account. Overdrawing, which means taking more money from your account than you have available, can result in an overdraft fee. The bank will take your money from you as a penalty if you try to spend more than you have. Ask the bank about setting up your account to stop your debit card from working if you don’t have enough money. But the bank can’t do anything if you write a check and don’t have enough money in your account. If you write a check without enough to cover it, the check will bounce, and you will still be charged a fee.

Besides the regular or student checking account, you should know about two other types of checking account. Interest-bearing checking accounts allow you to increase your bank balance without doing anything. The bank pays you a small amount of interest every month in return for you giving them your cash. This sounds like a good deal, but it usually comes with certain restrictions. You may need to maintain a high balance in the account to earn this interest, the bank may charge you a fee, or a combination of the two. In most cases, savings accounts offer better deals than interest-bearing checking accounts.

The last type of checking account is gaining popularity. The paperless or electronic checking account, also called a bill payment account, eliminates the use of a checkbook. You will not write checks for these accounts, so you lose some flexibility to pay for a purchase if debit cards are not accepted. But you will be able to send checks to other people and businesses by visiting your bank’s website and entering the recipient’s appropriate information. The bank then sends a check electronically or through the mail and keeps a record of the payment online. I have an account like this at ING Direct.

This is the first article in the Money Basics series. Look for more from Consumerism Commentary about savings accounts, credit cards, debt, and interest.

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