As featured in The Wall Street Journal, Money Magazine, and more!

Posts tagged as:

Personal Finance

My Honda Civic has an option for cruise control. Unfortunately, most of my driving currently takes place on the New Jersey Turnpike and local highways during rush hour and construction, so I rarely have an opportunity to activate this feature. In the slim occasion I find myself driving on a deserted country road, I activate the cruise control and sit back, letting the car’s computer maintain my speed. I like to imagine cruise control is an auto-pilot device, so I can relax, close my eyes, and wake upon arrival.

If you’ve ever driven with cruise control, you’ll know it is not the same as auto-pilot. You have to be vigilant and aware of your surroundings, even if you’re not keeping your foot on the accelerator pedal. I have the same concerns with the topic of automating finances.

cruise controlMaking your finances automatic is a great way to put your savings into overdrive. I take advantage of technology’s ability to automate in a number of ways:

  • My paycheck is directly deposited into my bank account every pay period.
  • Several of my bills, as many as possible, are paid automatically and in full every month with the appropriate credit card.
  • My credit cards are paid in full every month without me writing one check or clicking one button.
  • A number of savings transfers and investments are programmed to occur at the same time every month, again with no intervention.

I would like to say that these features of automation have effectively put my finances on auto-pilot. It is true that I am now free to use the time I would have otherwise spent paying bills and depositing paychecks for other, possibly more worthwhile tasks. I am hesitant to call this system an “auto-pilot,” however. Like driving, I am still in charge and my brain needs to be engaged. If I stop paying attention, the likelihood of a crash increases.

I primarily use three credit cards, two for personal use and one for business use. Despite the cards’ close proximity in my wallet, their cycles have not converged. The payments are due at different times of the month. My checking accounts are debited automatically, so I need to ensure I have enough money in the appropriate accounts at the appropriate times to avoid an overdraft fee. The automation doesn’t permit me to to “set it and forget it.”

The same is true with my bills. I mentioned I drive on the New Jersey Turnpike every day. That’s an expensive commute. I use the E-ZPass system to make the drive go quicker and receive a discount on tolls, but this kind of automation lowers my sensitivity to increasing tolls. Since I’m not stopping at the booth and handing out cash, I don’t see that money leaving my wallet. I look at my quarterly statements from E-ZPass, but with 65 weekdays of toll charges, plus some on weekends, it’s easy to let the increases stay buried in my mind.

I’ve begun to offset the toll increases by opting non-toll roads occasionally but with more traffic lights on these alternate routes, I would have to wonder whether the extra fuel expense negates the savings in tolls.

Even though my utility bills like electricity, cable and telephone, as well as my credit cards, are paid automatically each month, I am sure to review the statement or transactions. It’s tempting to let cruise control handle everything. I mentioned that it’s important to ensure money is in the accounts prior to the automated withdrawals, but more attention is necessary. Reviewing statements and transactions is necessary to catch mistakes.

Mistakes can be on the company’s part or on the consumer’s; at least once I’ve forgotten to cancel a “free for the first month” service and was rewarded with a charge on my credit card. I would have remained ignorant of the charge if I didn’t review the statements and download my transactions into Quicken. And I have also experienced a number of mistakes, such as the cable company charging me for a service they didn’t provide.

Companies are quick to encourage automation because they know a certain percentage of consumers will let “mistakes” slip. That’s a statistic I don’t want to be.

What part of your finances is tackled automatically, and are you on auto-pilot or cruise control? Have you ever encountered mistakes you would have missed if you weren’t paying attention?

Photo credit: mhalon

{ 10 comments }



Over the next couple of weeks, six finalists will be auditioning for the opening of “staff writer” at Consumerism Commentary. Each will be providing two guest articles to share with readers. After the six writers have shared their guest articles, readers will have an opportunity to provide feedback before we select the staff writer.

This article is presented by Ray, the owner and primary author of Financial Highway, where he discusses investing, saving and practical money management concepts.

I hate going through bills and statements every month, but the Mrs. on the other hand is very particular about it, she goes through all of the bills and checks items off “what a waste of time” I used to think until I recently. The few minutes it takes to check your bills can save you a lot of headache in the future.

Fraudulent charges

The most obvious reason you should take the time to check your statements is to check for unauthorized charges. This happens more frequent than you would think, if there is a large fraudulent charge it would be easy to detect but it’s the small amounts that can go unnoticed for a long time. This could also be charges that are not necessarily unauthorized but certain fees that you are unaware of, often you have between 60-90 days to dispute these charges so it is important to check regularly and report such charges immediately.

Mistakes

Yes mistakes happen, sometimes you are charged for things you are not suppose to be charged for, maybe a promotion ended or maybe a new fee was placed on certain things and you may miss them. By checking your bills regularly you will be aware of any extra fees or mistakes on your accounts, again taking early action will help you rectify these issues.

Accounting

Although I am a big fan of putting your finances on autopilot, you still need to keep track of your spending and budgeting. Going through your bills and statements will enable you to keep track of your expenditures and see if you are staying within your budget. It will also help you keep track of who you owe and how much, doing this on monthly bases will save you a lot of time at the end of the year and during tax filling.

Promotions and changes

Every now and then I notice some promotional offer being available from the company, for example recently I noticed that we can get a free upgrade on our TV package for six months, I love free! Checking the bills you may be able to find a few good promotions, which can go a long way. Companies also notify their customers of any changes in their terms and conditions when they send out the bills, you may miss important changes if you do not go through them which can end up costing you in the end.

I used to hate going through bills, but now I realize that those few minutes can save me a great deal of headache and run around later on. Not to mention the potential of saving money.

Do you go through your bills? Any other reasons why one should go through their bills on regular bases?

This is a guest article by Ray, one of six finalists interested in being Consumerism Commentary’s staff writer.

{ 10 comments }

One of my favorite bloggers, and likely one of yours, is J.D. Roth. He has been writing about personal finance at Get Rich Slowly for some time now, and I was a fan of his writing at foldedspace when “blog” was still a new word. He is working on a book now, which I can’t wait to get my hands on (and read), and at the same time, he has been working on a blog series condensing his thoughts about personal finance into thirteen core tenets.

This is one of J.D.’s favorite mantras when offering financial advice or support: Do what works for you.

I think this is a great philosophy, and I can see how it is appealing to intelligent people who are capable of thinking independently, performing objective analysis, and making decisions based on empirical data and other established facts. It cuts directly to the core of personal finance: that money is personal and not every solution is universal. Different people require different answers, and what works for one person might not necessarily work for another.

The spirit of “What Works For You” is the important aspect: there are many paths to success and one should find the path that fits personally, using experimentation and consideration as a guide.

There are many open questions in personal finance but few concrete answers. What is a good investment? What will the stock market do tomorrow? Will I be able to afford college for my children in ten years? health care for myself next year? Uncertainty can lead to frustration, and when people don’t know what to do, they want to stick with something that feels comfortable.

I think it’s easy for the spirit of the “What Works For you” philosophy to be lost as one spreads the message, because the philosophy implies a search for comfort and is therefore subject to a number of psychological traps.

“What Works for You” grants a license to ignore criticism

itsatrapOne thing I remember about the time I was required to listen to a day-long Landmark Education seminar is the leader’s ability to silence anyone who didn’t accept their philosophy. If you disagreed with one aspect of their nonsense, a Landmark follower simply claimed you had a “racket” and you were immediately dismissed. The “What Works for You” argument does the same thing.

If you are focused on doing “What Works For You,” there is no room for opposing viewpoints. We are given the opportunity to selectively ignore facts that don’t fit our world view. Consider credit cards that offer rewards when you use them. I use a cash back credit card and never pay interest or late fees. That sounds like a great deal, and I often suggest this as a good way to make the credit card companies work for you. But according to consumer studies, on average, people like me spend more using credit cards than they would with cash. Even the rewards earned, particularly as credit card companies find ways to keep reducing these rewards, don’t make up the difference due to increased spending.

But many like me continue to use credit cards because it works for us. We say that we are spending less than we earn and we’re winning the battle with credit cards. But unless we have conducted our own experiments to determine how our own behavior, as an individual or family, is affected differently through using credit or cash, we have silenced criticism from cash-only advocates with a nothing more than a wave of the hand and the contentment that since we don’t see any surface damage on our finances, our behavior works for us.

“What Works For You” invites analysis that could be far too simple

Notice that the philosophy is not “What Works Best For You.” Whether something works is a binary state: either something works or something does not work. The only answers are yes or no. There is no gray area, no sliding scale, no room for judgment.

The Debt Snowball is often touted as the best method to pay off debt. There is no doubt this method, which calls for paying off your credit card debt from the card with the lowest balance to the highest, works for many people. And its popularity leads people to believe that it’s not worth considering another choice.

But many people who have succeeded paying off debt with the Debt Snowball would have succeeded with the Debt Avalanche, which offers similar psychological benefits but saves money and time. It’s important for someone embarking on the journey to pay off debt to be presented with options and be allowed to make their own decision. If you look only for “What Works For You,” you could be missing something that works better.

“What Works for You” accepts mediocrity as a way of life

I have been around enough high-achievers to be jaded with the constant strive for excellence and the endless desire to be the best in whatever activity happens to be involved. Determination to be the best is how some teams win world championships but others live in misery with failure. Thankfully we don’t all have to be the best in the world at what we do.

But that’s not an excuse for refusing to seek improvement. Since the 1970s, there has been a new focus on self-esteem, which after many years of filtering from psychologists through to popular culture, has resulted in an environment where “everybody is a winner.” Everyone in Little League gets trophies, even the team with the worst record. Consideration of self-esteem is important to a point, and the placement of that point is debatable; before too long, people should be rewarded for something more than just participation, something beyond just the minimum.

“What Works” is just the minimum. Do more than that. Do what works and look for something that works better. Don’t just stop buying daily $5 lattes, stop leasing expensive cars every three years. Don’t just start putting 5% of your salary into a savings account, put 10% into a great savings account, contribute the maximum to your Roth IRA, and get at least the maximum employer match in your 401(k).

It’s important, in dealing with personal finance, to just start somewhere but that’s not an excuse to stop doing or to stop thinking.

The spirit of “What Works For You” is a good philosophy. Personal finance is personal. You should be free to make your own choices based on the best information and experiences and find the path that works best for you. I will submit that it is also important that while searching for your personalized version of a financial plan that you don’t fall into the above traps.

{ 16 comments }

While I was in California this past week, I spent a few days at my brother’s new apartment before his wedding this past Saturday. Among the piles of books not yet placed into a bookcase was something familiar: I Will Teach You to Be Rich by Ramit Sethi (review here). Ramit is a colleague of mine, a personal finance blogger who published a book that quickly became a favorite.

How Ramit saved my brother

My brother, who we’ll call Stewie for the sake of anonymity, is both a systems administrator and a musician; he earned good money from a day job which he then used to help fund his band’s national tour last year. But tours are expensive and money runs out. When I asked, he credits Consumerism Commentary and Ramit’s book with helping him get his finances in order and out of debt from the tour, and I think he mentioned Consumerism Commentary only to be nice. Stewie is an avid reader and has read a number of other books about basic money management and investing but I Will Teach You to Be Rich is the only one he feels provided concrete advice and suggestions for being smart about money.

I know Stewie was truthful because when he gave me a check to pay for the restaurant hosting his wedding ceremony and reception, the check was drawn from a Schwab Bank Investor Checking account, an account recommended several times throughout Ramit Sethi’s book.

The six-week “Boot Camp”

Today Ramit Sethi is releasing a new project. He has created a “Boot Camp,” a six-week program designed to empower participants to make better financial decisions. Through the Boot Camp, Ramit places participants with similar financial goals together and provides them with the tools, information, and most importantly, the motivation to get started and the group accountability to maintain action.

Here is how it works. At the start of each week, participants receive excerpts from I Will Teach You to Be Rich with additional content and worksheets. This is followed with a webcast, a video discussion on the week’s topic, downloadable so you can watch or listen on your iPod or computer when you have time. Each week will also feature special guest speakers including Andrew Jolls (ex-executive of FICO and founder of VideoCreditScore.com), Charlie Hoehn (author of Recession-Proof Graduate), and Chris Guillebeau (traveler and author of The Art of Non-Conformity). A complete curriculum including guest speakers is included below.

If Ramit had created the Boot Camp one year ago, I would have recommended the program to my brother. And this is coming from someone who was originally a skeptic of Ramit. When he first launched his blog in August 2004, I wondered how a pompous graduate student at Stanford could teach people to be rich without a long history of personal experience being rich. But his writing is captivating, he understands people, and provides the tools for getting things done.

How much does it cost?

At $199, the program might be a bit expensive for someone who is trying to figure out how they’re going to make their next rent payment. I’m confident this program will help a participant save at least $199, recovering the cost of the program, and the tools within will provide a lifetime of benefits. Ramit is offsetting the high price by offering a 30-day money-bank guarantee, so you can participate in most of the program and back out before the end if it is not working for you.

I’m generally a critic of seminars like Rich Dad Academy and Landmark Education, but with Ramit, I know the information will be sound, specific financial advice designed to inspire and motivate, not an up-sell scheme where you have to pay more for the “deluxe” package in order qualify for the useful information.

I expect the next time the Boot Camp is offered, the price will be significantly higher as he tweaks the service to include more materials and guest speakers.

Registration for the Boot Camp is only open through Friday, November 6.

Here is a taste of the Boot Camp, a twelve minute video of Ramit Sethi talking about automating your finances with specific tips for setting up accounts and directing your funds to the right places at the right times. (If you are reading through an RSS reader, you may need to click through to view the video.)

If you want to listen to more from Ramit before signing up, listen to my interview with Ramit from earlier this year. If you opt to join the Boot Camp, come back and let us know whether you like it.

Boot camp curriculum and guest speakers

Week 1: Optimizing your credit cards
Speaker: Andy Jolls: Thursday, November 12, 10:00 pm EST

Week 2: Beat the banks and negotiate for lower bills
Speaker: Charlie Hoehn: Thursday, November 19, 10:00 pm EST

Week 3: Open 401K and Roth IRA
Speaker: Chris Guillebeau: Tuesday, November 24, 10:00 pm EST

Week 4: Conscious Spending
Speaker: Penelope Trunk: Tuesday, December 1, 10:00 pm EST

Week 5: Automation
Speaker: Shannon Sofield: Thursday, December 10, 10:00 pm EST

Week 6: Investing – setting up portfolio
Speaker: Pam Slim: Thursday, December 17, 10:00 pm EST

{ 3 comments }

My accountant has strongly suggested I move my business-related financial accounting out of my personal Quicken file and into QuickBooks. It has been a slow process so far, and I have determined that I have not done a great job of separating my business finances from my personal finances.

QuickBooks 2010 was released yesterday. The software comes in a number of different flavors and the variety is a bit intimidating. I downloaded the QuickBooks Simple Start Free Edition in order to get started, but this edition of the software is limited to the point that it is insufficient for me. The Free Edition is limited to only twenty customers. In this version there is no connectivity with banks. While a very basic business could get by with these features, even running websites requires something more robust. One feature I would have liked with the free version, or the $100 (on sale for $80) QuickBooks Simple Start, is the ability to enter my bills as I receive them.

If you’re serious about keeping your books, it looks like your best bets are QuickBooks Pro ($200 on sale for $160) or QuickBooks Premier ($400 on sale for $320). You can also find editions of Pro and Premier that allow more than one user to access your data at the same time for an additional price.

QuickBooks Pro - Save up to 20% & Free Shipping

Intuit also offers one version of QuickBooks for Mac.

My accountant says he has a few clients who upgrade their version of QuickBooks every year, so in order to complete their tax returns, he must also upgrade every year. It looks like I’d be best suited for QuickBooks Pro but I want to do as much as I can in the free version of Simple Start.

There are too many flavors of QuickBooks to list, but you can find discounted prices on all Intuit QuickBooks products here.

{ 4 comments }

I do not currently have children, but I have not ruled out starting a family some day. If and when I do have children, I hope I will be able to help them become smart and capable adults over time. I believe this is what my parents have done for me, and I’d like to believe I’m in a position to pass on good attitudes about money.

Here are a few concepts I’d like to teach these future children about money as they become old enough to understand them.

I intend to teach as much by example as by conversation with the understanding that no person is perfect.

1. Money is neither good nor evil. Money is simply a tool, with no quality that defines it as good or evil. It can, however, be used to do good things or evil things. Money does help reveal the nature of a person. There is nothing inherently bad about not having little wealth or having great wealth. The value of a person is not defined by how much money he or she has, so you cannot judge a person by looking at the bank account statements.

2. Money is not a goal. There is no point in wanting to have one million dollars, or any sum of wealth that might make a good milestone, if it servers no purpose other than to sit in a bank account or at the bottom of a balance sheet. Focus on real goals, not net worth. Don’t be the boy who, when asked what he wants to be when he grows up, answers, “Rich.” It’s not the number that counts, it’s what you do with it.

3. Money will not make you happy. Money is not correlated to happiness. Rich people aren’t necessarily happier than poor people. In fact, wealthy people are more stressed. The happiest people are those who are satisfied with what they have; if you always want more, you will always be struggling. Now, there will be people who will tell you that you must constantly strive for more in order to be successful, but these are people who equate success with things like job title, wealth, and seeing their name on seminar advertisement posters. They’re probably not happy. It’s okay not to settle, but only if your goals are worthwhile.

4. Don’t be jealous of other people’s money. There will always be people who have more money than you, but there will always be many more people who have less. If you learn to handle your money properly, you will find that you’re more financially secure than others who try hard to flaunt their wealth; those with fancy cars and houses may owe money to other people and to banks. Jealousy is a distracting emotion, so it’s better for your own sanity to worry about yourself than it is to look at other people, especially when you can only see what they are showing on the surface.

5. If you are in a position to help, you have an obligation to help. As I mentioned above, at any one time it is more likely you’ll be in a better financial position than most of the other people who live on this planet. You are lucky to be born in a rich country in a very prosperous time. Though it is no fault of your own, these circumstances present the responsibility of helping to make this world a better place in whatever way you see fit.

6. Companies want your money. Corporations spend lots of their own money trying to develop ways to get you to give your money to them. Don’t believe what you see in commercials, on television shows, in movies, on the internet, or even on the news. Everyone has an angle and that angle is often to try to get you to part with your money. It’s a cynical view of media and of the world, but turn off the commercials and think for yourself. Increase the signal-to-noise ratio.

7. Pay attention to your money. Once you start receiving an allowance, create a budget. Save part of the money and spend the rest as you see fit, but write out a budget and track everything you buy. This is a good habit to start early. If you’re paying attention, you’ll soon realize that the only situation that results in building your wealth is spending less than you have.

8. Don’t expect a free lunch. I will do everything in my power to ensure that lots of opportunities are available to you, but our culture within the “middle class” is defined by trading your time and effort for money. In other words, you get paid for working and you get paid better for working harder. You’re not a Bush, so you won’t get to be President of the United States because it runs in our family. There is no trust fund.

9. Save as much as you can for later. Even though Albert Einstein never really said that compound interest is the strongest force in the universe, he probably would suggest saving as much money as possible. It is true that the sooner you can control your actions to delay gratification, the better you can plan for the future. But it is also true that spending money shouldn’t always illicit a feeling of gratification. Feel good about saving, then you can feel gratified when you put money in the bank, not when you take it out.

10. Avoid borrowing money. Just like money is inherently neither good nor evil, owing money to other people is inherently neither good nor evil. Borrowing money has its drawbacks. Any purchase you finance with interest will end up costing more than it should. However, within the “middle class,” it will be difficult to avoid some borrowing. Not all debt has to be bad. You may need a loan for college and you almost definitely will need a mortgage to buy a house. Make smart choices about these purchases and you’ll be in a good position even if you do have debt.

11 (bonus). It’s not about the money. While money gives you flexibility and eventually independence, don’t spend too much of your time focusing on it. Realize that money should not be the sole driver for your decisions. Many smart people will tell you about “return on investment” (ROI), but sometimes you can’t measure the validity of a decision by how much money you receive. Think about all factors when making decisions. Some decisions, like those pertaining to investments, should be based on financial considerations as much as possible. But for other decisions pertaining to your life, money should be only one consideration of many.

Do you disagree with any of the above lessons? What do or will you teach your children about money? Is there anything else you wish your parents had taught you?

{ 20 comments }

If you are reading this article, it is almost completely guaranteed that you are human. And if you are human and do not have a major cerebral deficit, you have emotions. Perhaps have is not a strong enough word; everything you do, and every decision you make, is controlled by your emotions. Even the strive to take a logical approach to life is an emotional desire. Despite this, and even with the knowledge that you can never fully leave your emotions behind, the best financial decisions are made when you are aware of your emotions, control them to a point, and compensate for the effect they might be having on your decision making.

Emotions in negotiations

In this Sunday’s Consumerism Commentary Podcast, one of our guests is Herb Cohen, a master negotiator who advised Presidents Jimmy Carter and Ronald Reagan on dealing with the Iranian Hostage Crisis. One of his suggestions, framed around negotiating a major purchase like a house, will be not to fall in love with the object.

If you want a good deal, you have to be willing to walk away. If you let your emotions control your decision, you are much more likely to pay more than you should. The salesperson — or anyone else with whom you negotiate — will know right away if your emotions are controlling your decisions and will use this fact to their advantage. Your emotions give your power away.

Emotions in debt

Many otherwise smart people find themselves in unmanageable debt as a result of their own decisions. Not everyone is in debt for this reason, but some who are have made decisions fueled by emotions, where “want” and “desire” were the operative words. When it comes to getting out of debt, you could take an emotional approach or try to put your emotions aside.

As humans are emotional creatures, I can see why some people would argue that an emotional approach to getting out of debt would be successful. And it just might be in the short term. But unless this example individual, in debt due to emotional spending and using emotional decisions to get out of debt, changes their mindset drastically once they are in better financial shape, there is a good chance their emotional decisions will lead them back to debt.

I like to tell people about the Debt Avalanche method of debt reduction because it takes a more mathematical approach to getting out of debt. This approach helps people get used to separating emotions from financial decisions as much as possible. On the other hand, the Debt Snowball method relies on emotions — the same emotions that might have allowed us to find ourselves in trouble and might cause us to falter again. The Debt Avalanche does have emotional components, but it does steer us away from using emotions to guide actions.

Emotions in investing

The only way to make money in investing is to “buy low, sell high,” but this is the exact opposite of what actual trading behavior looks like. Most investors decide to buy after a stock or other investment has shown a confidence-inspiring pattern of price increases. They also decide to sell when the price has declined; if everyone else is selling, causing the price to go down, they must know something that we don’t know. We lose confidence in the investment, and we sell. “Buy low, sell high” is a mantra that all investors know, so why do we ignore this in practice?

The answer is our emotions. Rather that making decisions based on an investment’s underlying value and expectations for the future, we are affected by the media and the stock market. News and price movement inspire fear or excitement, and it takes these emotions to encourage someone to resist inertia and decide to buy or sell.

We can’t fully separate emotions from our ability to make decisions. However, just by being aware of the effect they have can help mitigate the bad choices. How do you deal with your emotions when making financial decisions?

{ 2 comments }

I’m not a big fan of “rules of thumb.” These are bite-sized nuggets of wisdom masquerading as advice, designed to apply to a mass audience. At best, they cant point someone in the right direction, but at worst, rules of thumb can erroneously send people on the wrong path or can mistakenly instill a false sense of security. This is a good example of why the best financial advice is specifically tailored to an individual or a family.

Rules of thumb satisfy the human desire for knowledge on a stick, like fast food for the brain. They are easily repeatable and retweetable, and they invite a minimum of critical thinking. But it would be unfair to suggest ignoring all rules of thumb. Some are better — more accurate for a larger number of people — than others. But it’s important to determine which ones apply to your situation and which one’s are not relevant.

Here are some of the more popular rules of thumb targeting personal finances, often repeated by gurus and writers targeting a wide audience.

Rules of thumb

You should save 10 percent of your income. Grade: B-.

This rule of thumb is not specific. It is not clear whether 10 percent should be counted before or after taxes. Saving this percentage of your gross income, a larger sum than the same percentage of your “take-home” income, would be preferred. This rules of thumb also does not specify whether your 401(k) or other investments are included or if this only refers to savings not invested or spent.

I can’t say that saving 10 percent is a bad idea. This is a good starting point; in fact, putting this portion of your income away without touching it will put you far ahead of the “average” American. Many people, however, will need to save more, some significantly more, than 10 percent in order to meet their goals. This rule of thumb, ingrained in the minds of many people who have read books suggesting this amount, can convince someone than 10 percent is enough.

Your emergency fund should be large enough to replace 3 to 6 months of your income. Grade: D.

Again, this is a good starting point, but your income is not related to the size. Your emergency fund should be allow you to afford your non-discretionary expenses while you work to replace your income. Determining the right size for your emergency fund requires measuring your monthly expenses, judging the stability of your income, determining what you would be willing to do to replace that income, considering how much it might cost to relocate in an emergency, and seeking expenses to cut.

The economy and the job market — how long it might take you to find a new job — should be a consideration as well. A better rule of thumb might state that the size of your emergency fund should be enough to cover necessary expenses for the number of months equal to the unemployment rate. For example, if the unemployment rate in your state is 10 percent, your emergency fund should be large enough to cover 10 months’ worth of expenses.

You can withdraw 4 percent of your nest egg in retirement to provide yourself an income while keeping enough invested to last indefinitely. Grade: C.

The 4 percent “safe withdrawal rate” relies on a number of dangerous assumptions. First, the funds from which you take the 4 percent must be invested completely in a diversified selection of stocks, like the S&P 500. As we’ve seen recently, beginning retirement while completely invested in stocks in a year where the stock market is down can be disastrous to financial health. Secondly, in assumes the stock market will perform 5 percentage points higher than inflation. That’s a reasonably good estimate when you look at the stock market on average, but there is rarely an average year. The stock market performs significantly better in some years and significantly worse in others.

The rule of thumb is not detailed enough to explain, but 4 percent is the withdrawal rate for the first year only. The withdrawal in every subsequent year should increase by the rate of inflation. For example, if you withdraw $40,000 from your $1,000,000 in the first year, and in the second year your nest egg increases to $1,001,000 after a year where inflation was 3%, your withdrawal in the second year should be $41,200 (3% more than $40,000) rather than $40,040 (4% of your new balance).

To find the percentage of your portfolio that should be invested in stocks, subtract your age from 100. Grade: F.

According to this rule, once you are no longer a minor the most you’ll be invested in stocks or stock mutual funds is about 80 percent. Someone retiring at age 65 would have a portfolio only 35 percent invested in the stock market. This directly contradicts what would be necessary to make the 4 percent safe withdrawal rule of thumb a reality. And for most people, the calculation using 100 just simply won’t cut it in order to grow wealth over the long term.

There’s more to consider. Suze Orman has a massive net worth compared to most people, and can therefore afford to play it safe by investing almost all of it in bonds. Stocks are riskier, and she and other people with significant net worth do not have to take on as much risk as what is found in the stock market to provide more than enough income for the rest of their life. Not only that, but significant wealth in a less risky investment helps ensure there will be an estate to leave to family or charity at the end of life.

The rest of us must take on the risk of the stock market in order to provide the best chance of building wealth in the long term. And the amount of risk needed for us is a higher percentage than the result of subtracting your age from 100. Perhaps 130 or 140 would be a better figure to use.

To retire comfortably, you will need to have an income of 80 percent of your maximum pre-retirement income. Grade: C.

Although it’s common to believe your needs, and therefore expenses, will be less in retirement, reality shows that this is not always the case. It is safer to assume that your expenses will be 10 percent higher in retirement. Keep in mind that health care costs will most likely rise dramatically as you age. And with people living longer than ever, those expenses will last for many years.

Once size does not fit all. Rules of thumb are good starting points, but don’t fall into the trap of believing you are safe if you follow these rules. Do you know of any other rules of thumb deserving a thrashing?

Photo: John Leach

{ 21 comments }